Story & photos by Joshua Berida
Myanmar was not on my bucket list of places to visit, but there was something about this country that piqued my curiosity. I knew little of this nation aside from news snippets of Aung San Suu Kyi.
Myanmar is slowly opening itself to tourism; the perfect time to visit. The adventurous side of me could not resist the allure of ticking off a country relatively unknown to tourists.
The Golden City of Yangon
I thought the flight to Myanmar would be uneventful, but approximately an hour into the flight, the pilot decided to turn around. We had to switch planes for a reason I could not remember, the adventure began even before I reached my destination.
The airport, despite its old state, was distinctly Burmese; the paintings on the wall and the temple-like façade masked the inane interior. I could not wait to explore this new country.
A trip through Myanmar’s thoroughfares was like traveling back in time; each moment in sepia tones, past and present on the cusp of breaking out of an old picture frame.
Old sedans, probably manufactured in the 1970s or 1980s, are parked on the streets and waited for passengers, while rickety buses and trucks shuttled locals back and forth. The decrepit buildings housed residents, shops and restaurants. The battered streets that flooded easily when it rained reminded me of Manila. Men wore traditional longyi (skirts) and women put on thanaka, a yellowish facial paint or makeup.
It seemed like very few things were new in this former British colony.
The city became more interesting as I made my way to the temples, old colonial buildings and monuments on foot.
A cathedral, an Anglican church, the post office, a giant clock tower and other British-inspired architecture were remnants of its colonial past. Mosques and golden temples were also present; the seclusion of the country masked the multiculturalism of Yangon.
The grand and golden temples scattered in different parts of the city contrasted with the dying buildings and broken streets. It was quite obvious that religion matters to the Burmese, as places of worship were kept in excellent condition.
The holiest and famous temple in the country is the Shwedagon Pagoda. Laden with gold, it towers over the city at 99-meters high with giant statues guarding the entrance of Singuttara Hill and the shrine.
The temple is said to be 2,500 years old and houses holy relics, such as the Buddha’s hair; making it an important pilgrimage site for Buddhists in the country. Adding to its luster, Shwedagon Pagoda has thousands of gems, such as diamonds, sapphires and rubies, just to name a few.
The many stupas, temples and Buddha statues make the pagoda a remarkable destination even for non-Buddhists. Just a step into the pagoda gave me a glimpse of Myanmar’s rich past and vibrant culture, despite the decay prevalent in its modern state.
Shwedagon Pagoda is not the only temple in the city, but it is the most prominent and significant. The other temples in Yangon were smaller versions of it, but also laden with gold that attracts many devotees to pray and pay their respects.
Shwedagon’s golden glimmer under the morning sun is already impressive, more so at night. The thousands of gems and gold plates shone vibrantly, creating their own light amidst the darkness. Despite the late hour, the bustle of people trickled in slowly toward this illumination, beckoning them to let go of their burdens, a chance at rebirth.
Yangon is a city of contradictions; the ancient golden temples at its soul, the dilapidated structures, a body in decay preparing to shed its skin, its ghosts.
Ancient Bagan
I have seen the ancient temples in Siem Reap; Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, and Ta Prohm, but the structures in Bagan, Myanmar, were different.
The kings of Bagan were devoutly Buddhist, leading to the construction of thousands of pagodas and temples dating back to the 11th century.
More than 2,000 reddish temples in different states of restoration and disrepair dotted the desert as far as the eyes could see, where devotees pay their respects and breathe life into the shrines.
The centuries-old temples varied in design, intricate carvings on its exterior, gold-laden pagodas and spires of different shapes depict the artistry of the ancient craftsmen who built the city.
I was lost in thought as I wandered from temple to temple on a horse cart. The clopping of the horse, the sand of the desert, and the experience of wandering in an ancient and rich city were surreal moments.
There were so many red-brick structures, and after a few hours, they start looking the same, their distinctions lost. However, there were some noteworthy temples because of their uniqueness and grandeur.
The Dhammayangyi Temple is the largest and widest in Bagan. I walked inside this enormous, yet, hollow temple, trying to imagine kings and devotees coming and going.
The Ananda Temple is a stylistic accomplishment as it conflates Burmese architecture and the influence of Indian design. The white walls, plaques and stone images of the structure tell their own story. Inside, the four golden statues of Buddha face different directions from north to south.
Shwesandaw Pagoda is like any other structure in the plains of Bagan, but once I climbed its tiers, I saw the best view of the ancient city. Atop the pagoda, I had an overlooking scene of the thousands of temples. It was the perfect place to watch the sunset. The reddish structures transformed from a rusty red to faint orange as the skies also changed from fire to fading embers.
While the country is relatively opening up tourists, Myanmar’s seclusion has kept many of its sights relatively untouched, and its people genuinely friendly.
From the old colonial buildings, golden Shwedagon Pagoda in the busy city of Yangon, to the ancient temples spread across Bagan; it is a country with a rich culture and history waiting to be discovered.