Story & photos by Ma. Glaiza Lee
At the concierge counter of a hotel, two foreigners were talking to each other. Halfway through their conversation, one of them blurted out: “There is nothing to see in Manila!”
Hearing that, how could that possibly be? He must have been mistaken. If he really knows where to look, there are numerous treasures waiting to be explored within the city’s nooks and crannies.
Take, for instance, the walled city of Intramuros. Built during the Spanish regime in 1571, the 64-hectare stone citadel is a metaphor for the country’s capital city itself. Its stone walls echo the 400-year colorful history of Manila. Its pavements testify to the rich cultural heritage that has been preserved through the years.
Inside the walls
Exploring Intramuros is a walking tour. Take time to visit the Intramuros Visitors’ Center at the Baluartillo de San Francisco in Fort Santiago. Pick up some maps and brochures as guides around the walled city. But since you are already at Fort Santiago, you might want to begin your historical tour here.
A popular tourist destination in Manila, Fort Santiago was originally built by Spanish conquistadors as a replacement to the destroyed fortress belonging to the last datu of Manila. Throughout history, the fort has served as a fortress against the Chinese pirates, a prison for the political prisoners during the Spanish period and a Japanese torture chamber during World War II.
But the fort is best known as the place where the Philippine national hero, Dr. Jose Rizal, was imprisoned before his execution in 1896. Inside the fort is the Rizal Shrine, a museum housing Rizal’s memorabilias. Embedded on its pavements are his footsteps, representing his final walk from his cell to the location of the actual execution, in Bagumbayan.
From the main gate, walk toward General Luna Street, passing by Plaza Moriones and Palacio del Gobernador, and take a look inside the Manila Cathedral.
The ecclesiastical seat of the Archdiocese of Manila, the cathedral is one of the two notable remaining churches built inside the walled city; the other being the San Agustin Church. Other churches built during the Spanish times were the San Nicolas de Tolentino Church, the San Francisco Church, the Third Venerable Order Church, the Santo Domingo Church, the Lourdes Church and the San Ignacio Church; gaining for the city the name “City of Churches.”
The present-day structure of the cathedral is the sixth to occupy the site. The first one was built in 1581 but was razed two years after it was constructed. The present church was completed in 1958.
Inside the cathedral are the crypts that serve as the final resting place of deceased Manila archbishops, including Jaime Cardinal Sin, one of the 1986 Edsa Revolution movers that ousted President Ferdinand Marcos.
Walk further down and one would see the other remaining church built during the Spanish period. First constructed in 1571, San Agustin Church has been destroyed and rebuilt several times before the present-day structure was completed in 1604, with an earthquake-proof design.
The church has 14 side chapels, hand-carved wooden pews and the 18th-century pipe organ, and most people could not help but marvel at its beautiful trompe l’oeil ceiling. Beside the church is a museum housing Spanish vestments, religious artworks and pieces of furniture.
Designated as a United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization World Heritage Site in 1993, the church also has a crypt. History has it that Spanish and American commanders had discussed Manila’s terms of surrender in its vestry. Also, the Japanese invaders had killed about 140 people on the church premises during World War II.
Other interesting places nearby include the Puerta de Santa Lucia, one of the several gates passing through the walls. Constructed in 1603, the gate leads to Malecon Drive. There is also Casa Manila, a reconstruction of the Spanish colonial house, where guests can take a glimpse of how Filipinos lived during the Spanish time.
New way to explore Intramuros
If you have strolled around the walled city, one could not help but notice the green patches of land that are part of the Club Intramuros Golf Course.
In 1898, when the Americans took over from the Spaniards, the moat around Intramuros was drained and reclaimed. It was later covered with grass, spruced up with sand pits and ponds, and was turned into a golf course. Considered the oldest golf course in the country, Intramuros Golf Club has an estimated 4,000-yard greensward, complementing the centuries-old walls.
Simply Moving Philippines Inc. (SMPI) has partnered with the Department of Tourism and the Intramuros Administration to create a unique tour to see the different sights within and outside the walled city of Manila using a Segway, a self-balancing personal transportation vehicle.
“Most golfers come here with companions, or with their family. While the golf course is not that expansive, it still takes time to finish the 18 holes. This tour is the best way to keep the companions occupied while waiting for the golfers to finish their game, and give them something to look forward to when visiting the golf club,” said SMPI COO George Apacible, who shared that the Segway tour was first introduced in the Philippines in Boracay in 2012. But it has been already making the glide at the world’s major tourist destinations, such as Barcelona, Washington, D.C., Paris and Singapore.
A glide through history
Onboard our Segway, our tour guide led us to our first stop: Reducto de San Francisco Javier. When the Spanish conquistadores made some renovations in Fort Santiago, they added this tunnel and ravelin to serve as protection for some parts of the riverside and seashore.
On the platforms at the top, they placed cannons; while gun powders and ammunition were stored in the chambers below. Like most parts of Intramuros, this fortification had been badly damaged during the war. After its renovation in the 1980s, it was converted into a shrine for the Our Lady of Guadalupe.
Gliding through the fairways, we reached the beautiful greenery that serves as the verdant stage for Manila’s historical landmarks, such as the Palacio del Gobernador—an eight-story office building that was built as the official residence of the Spanish gobernador-general. We could also see the Manila Cathedral from the golf course.
We also stopped by the monument of Miguel Hidalgo, a Mexican liberator. Opposite the small park was a narrow rough road leading to one of the entrances to Intramuros. Next, we came by the Postigo del Palacio, where Rizal was taken here en route to Bagumbayan (currently known as Luneta Park), the place of his execution, on December 30, 1896.
Riding the Segway, we followed the long circuit of massive stone walls and fortifications. From our vantage point, we saw the irregular outline of the defensive walls. History has it that the walls follow the contours of Manila Bay and the curvature of the Pasig River. After 30 minutes of maneuvering the personal transport vehicle, we went back to the starting point.
Sometimes, one need not travel for hours to find and create a new experience. Even in the heart of Manila, one can find a destination that can drown the madness of the city life. As for the two foreign tourists, with the right perspective, they hopefully would find beauty and poetry beyond the grittiness and chaos that is Manila.