Story and photos by Ayunan G. Gunting
MY last visit Tawi-Tawi was in 2008. On this, my second trip to this island province in the southernmost pocket of the country, I quickly recognized its strong tourist appeal. There were hordes of people with cameras dangling from their necks, there were Tausugs everywhere. It was beautiful and very kid-friendly, which made me appreciate it even more.
Tawi-Tawi’s unspoiled waters, white sandy beaches, prehistoric caves and mountain vistas will no doubt delight and even thrill the most jaded traveler. The representative for the lone district of Tawi-Tawi, Congressman Ruby M. Sahali is passionate about promoting its natural attractions and rich culture while keeping an unwavering eye on environmental concerns.
Sahali is making a bid to make Turtle Islands, a remote municipality of seven islands, declared as a wildlife sanctuary. She has authored a bill to provide measures that will allow tourists to enjoy its sights and natural bounty while keeping the environment from becoming degraded.
Visitors will no doubt be drawn to watch marine and leatherback turtles hatch eggs on Turtle Islands. However, the presence of human beings and artificial life can frighten them and disorient baby turtles as they crawl to the sea. The bill aims to protect the turtles through zoning. “There should be a sector for the community and another for the turtles to lay their eggs. That hasn’t been defined. When turtles hear noise or see light, they won’t lay eggs. Where else will they go except in that island?” she says.
Her vision will require a budget from the government that would provide the necessary equipment and manpower to protect the turtles.
“Tawi-Tawi’s main attractions are its pristine natural beauty, the variety of seafoods, and the smiles of the people. We are a thriving community of Muslims, the Sama tribes that live on the land and the sea, the Badjaos and Tausug, all of whom live in harmony,” she says.
Contrary to news that place Tawi-Tawi in the proximity of battles between the rebels and government troops, the island province is relatively peaceful. “Although it is near Sulu, Basilan and Zamboanga, Tawi-Tawi has been stable,” Sahali says.
Bongao, the provincial capital, is famous for its stunning hilltop views and coves. Bud Bongao, the highest mountain the in province, is sacred to the locals. They climb up to commune with Allah and ask for miracles. Climbers are greeted by macacaques, local monkeys who enjoy being fed with bananas.
In Panglimasugala, Tawi-Tawi, around 15 weavers were gathered around and sitting on top of their creations—the mysterious and much sought-after baloy, mats made of pandan leaf strips dyed in fantastical colors. The Sama Dilaut women weave them typically inside their houses, but for our visit they had brought all their mats out to a wooden platform for our group to see. Simunul Island, the cradle of Islam in the Philippines, is a heritage site for the tomb of Sheik Karimul Makhdum, the first Muslim missionary who built the country’s first mosque in the 14th century.
Dubbed the “Venice of the South,” Sitangkai is connected by waterways and foot bridges. Since the only mode of transport is by boat, the Badjaos and Samas go about their daily life on these vessels. It also called the carageeneen capital of the Philippines.
Then there are other destinations that lend that otherworldly feel. Panglima Sugala (formerly Balimbing) is noted for its coral stones and ancient graveyards. Mapun (formerly Cagayan de Tawi- Tawi) beckons with its three crater lakes, vestiges of volcanic eruptions, waterfalls, island marshes, flora and fauna. Gusong Reef is the second-largest producer of sea turtle eggs that are made into soup and an island perfect for seagull sightings. Sibutu is prolific with wildlife—hogs, wild roosters, kingfishers, orioles, parrots and canaries.
Sahali’s mother, Juana Maquiso Sahali, regional tourism president, has made the island province tourism-friendly.
There are daily flights from Manila and comfortable accommodations for leisure travelers and conference markets. Visitors can visit bars and restaurants, karaoke bars in Bongao, or enjoy beach sports. The markets are a haven for Chinese and Malaysian products, foodstuffs and local delicacies.
“People will want to see these beautiful places created by nature, and experience how we live,” Sahali says.