The revitalization of the Philippine textile industry was one of the major points of discussion at a stakeholders’ conference held in Taguig City by the Philippine Textile Research Institute (PTRI) on January 28.
PTRI, which functions under the Department of Science and Technology (DOST) as the lead textile research facility in the country, was appointed to undertake development and exploration work for textiles and textile-affiliated industries.
Textiles Empowering Lives Anew (Tela) Nation conference was stitched with the theme “One Asean: Beyond Borders, Beyond Boundaries, Beyond Bounds, an active endeavor to contribute to the Asean Economic Community.”
Science Secretary Mario G. Montejo urged the thrust for innovation and sustainable development in the textile industry, following previous predicaments the Philippine textile industry has faced in the previous years. These include the collapse of hundreds of commercial mills; the waning number of local manufacturers; inflow of imported clothing and textile products; and the advent of global brands that dominated the local market.
“We have realized that the solutions have to emanate from within us—they must be Filipino-centric, responding to the needs and wants of Aling Maria and Mang Juan,” he said.
“We cannot solve everything, but we can start somewhere,” Trade Undersecretary Ceferino Rodolfo said.
He noted that, despite the country having an open market to the European Union and Asean, the question as to whether we have quality products to offer remains the biggest challenge. If the fashion and textile industry flourishes, he said this is bound to generate jobs, further boosting the economy.
Rodolfo added that the Philippines lost a major Japanese textile mill investment to Thailand and Indonesia in the 1980s when martial law was declared. It also missed out on foreign direct investments inflows because of the country’s foreign ownership restrictions.
Renowned designer Jeanne Goulbourn agreed, saying the country has lost countless of opportunities in the past decade for its failure to uphold its blooming textile industry in the 1950s when it was the leading textile manufacturer in the Asean region. Her brand, Silk Cocoon, is mostly prized by European customers because of its modern twist on traditional handloom methods.
Having worked with international luxury brands, like Chanel, Christian LaCroix, and even the Queen of Pop, Madonna herself, Gouldbourn said not all hope is lost. Nevertheless, an overhaul is needed due to local brands not entirely being local because much of what we consider local brands are manufactured in foreign countries, particularly in China.
She called for the support of schools to invest in the youth, as well as capitalizing on machinery that will bring the textile industry of the Philippines back up to the global market.
Through fashion, Goulbourn said the country can promote its identity by creating modern versions of the traditional Filipino attire that is wearable every day.
Zooming in on small and medium enterprices, postmodern brand Anthill (Alternative Nest and Trading/Training Hub for Ingenious/Indigenous Little Livelihood Seekers) Fabric Gallery started incorporating indigenous woven textiles into clothing, bags and countless everyday items like ID straps and toys for children.
Social entrepreneur Anya Lim heads the Cebu-based lifestyle store that taps indigenous communities around the archipelago to produce weaves, providing the tribes easier access to the local market.
Lim believes that this will pave the way to preserve cultural prints through modern measures. “There is an infinite quantity of market that you can tap. You just have to be creative and know how to innovate,” she said.
PTRI boasted of the modernization of geotextile-testing facilities that provides lower testing fees for clients compared to testing sites in foreign countries, and their innovation centers for yarns and textiles that will enable small-volume production of indigenous yarns, which are inputs to textile development.
Geotextile-testing facilities reported 96.8-percent growth of clients since its establishment in 2010. Meanwhile, natural dyeing was also promoted as its process reduced duration and has conducted more comprehensive and natural dye properties and performance evaluation.
A collaboration with Komisyon ng Wikang Filipino was also publicized for a bilingual technical manual for handloom weaving, which will be available in three local languages.
The final part of the conference gathered DOST regional directors, non-governmental organizations and representatives from partner state colleges and universities in a roundtable for a discussion woven around the drive for Regional Yarn Innovations Centers.
A “fiber map” of the country was presented by the Philippine Fiber Industry, noting the key places for sustainable development within the industry.
An assessment from procuring handloom products across the archipelago was given by Culturaid Inc.
PTRI took the opportunity to launch “Tara na, Tela na!”, a nationwide handloom-weaving tools and equipment invention contest that aims to uncover feasible textile apparatus to enhance the indigenous textile industry and increase productivity in handloom-weaving communities, in line with the annual celebration of Philippine Tropical Fabrics Month and the 49th founding anniversary of PTRI.
Image credits: Mia Mallari