Story & photos by Vic Sevilla
THOSE bitten by an irresistible urge to travel commonly design a well-planned itinerary of places to visit, sights to see and adventures to try—often taking paths worn out by tourists and holidaymakers. In so doing, many travelers miss out on the surprises that less-treaded byways may offer. Thus, those who go through Bicol’s usual tourist corridors may inadvertently leave out the peninsula’s other charms…such as the picturesque beauty of a city by a volcano, its leisurely pace, and the vibrant flavors it serves. Fortunately, on a recent jaunt to Bicol, I took the road less traveled and discovered Iriga City.
A city on the verge of modernization
At a glance, the hub of Iriga City typifies a rural town. From the tree-shaded walkways of the Eco-Friendship Park in the heart of the city, the busy streets burst with life and the din of trade. While vast tracts of land are still dedicated to agriculture, the city’s center moves to the buzz of commerce.
According to Fray Felix Huertas’s Estado Geografico, Topografico, Estadistico, Historico-Reliogoso de la Santa Apostolica Provincia de S. Gregorio Magno, published in 1865, Iriga was merely a settlement beside Poblacion de Nabua in what was then the Provincia de Ambos Camarines. Located at the foot of Mount Asog, the first settlers benefited from the fertile land without fear of the annual monsoon deluge.
Today Iriga is a bustling hub of commerce, as well as an educational center (it is home to the University of Saint Anthony, University of Northeastern Philippines, La Consolacion College, STI College, AMA Computer Learning Center and many other learning institutions). The city’s population, which doubles during the daytime, has, in turn, brought about the emergence of several fastfood chains, banks and shopping establishments.
But beneath the conspicuous trappings of modernity, in the hidden nooks and lonely byways of the city, are delights that tell the story of the past, offer a glimpse of its natural beauty, and lure the palate with traditional victuals.
Iriga’s natural allure
Iriga is blessed with a varied terrain that offers an array of stunning views—from hills and wild woodlands to freshwater springs and a volcano that sits over a plain like an imperious king. Wherever one goes in the city, the silhouette of Mount Iriga is an all-pervading sight that hogs the horizon. Known originally as Mount Asog (after the Agta chief who ruled the aboriginal tribes living in the plains surrounding the volcano long before the Spaniards came), Mount Iriga rises to some 4,823 feet above sea level.
For mountaineers and nature lovers, Mount Iriga poses a tough climb because of its jagged topography. The volcano’s eruption in the 17th century (its last recorded explosion) formed a crater that drops to a breathtaking 500 feet from the summit. The force must have been so cataclysmic as to carve a deep gully and create a horseshoe-shaped amphitheater on its side facing the placid waters of Lake Buhi. The top should surely offer a commanding view from the city to the far reaches of the entire Bicol River basin area.
Iriga City is not known as the “city of crystal-clear springs” for nothing. Within its boundaries run underground streams, some of which find their way up to break the ground and form springs. Numbering to more than 30, these springs are known for their clear, invigorating waters. In Sitio San Isidro, the Masosu Spring Resort has made a name for its cool waters coming from four natural pools. Although accommodations have been built around the pools, the owners have kept the pools in their natural state—leaving the waters flowing freely from their pebble-covered beds. On weekends and holidays, expect an overflow of visitors crowding the pools to bathe and loll in the cool waters, keeping the sweltering heat at bay.
Faith…between hell and high water
Though every bit as fun-loving as the typical Filipino, Bicolanos must be a hardy breed. Making a living under the shadow of deadly volcanoes and right on the country’s typhoon belt, they have flourished literally between hell and high water. This precarious state of things must have developed a strong sense of faith among the people of this rugged peninsula.
Belonging to the Archdiocese of Nueva Caceres, Iriga City has several churches within its confines. At its center is the Church of Saint Anthony de Padua. Decades after its establishment as a settlement, the church changed its name from the native I-raga (which means “possessors of much land”) to Iriga. The religious powers decreed Saint Anthony of Padua as its patron saint and June 13 as the fiesta to celebrate the patron. The church’s original structure was built in the 18th century and has since become the center of spiritual devotion among Irigueños and devotees from neighboring towns and far-flung cities.
“Its feast day is known as Pintakasi, meaning ‘grand celebration.’ This is marked by a High Mass and procession, a trade fair to showcase the native crafts and delicacies of Iriga City, and a beauty contest that crowns the city’s fairest maidens,” explains Angelica Matubis-Baylon, an officer from the City Mayor’s Office.
Already attracting pilgrims from far and wide, Iriga City’s Grotto of Our Lady of Lourdes is perched on top of Calvario Hill, facing the parish church. It overlooks the center of the city and has an unimpeded view of Mount Iriga. Designed following the structural pattern of the Lourdes grotto, the stone edifice has a symmetrical zigzagging path of more than 100 steps to take devotees to the top where the image of the virgin is perched. This setting acts as the dramatic backdrop to the reenactment of Christ’s crucifixion during the Lenten season’s annual street passion play.
On January 4, 1641, when the long-dormant Mount Iriga violently spewed lava and rocks, much of Iriga was spared of deadly pyroclastic flows and earthquakes. Its miraculous escape from sure death has been attributed to the apparition of the Blessed Virgin Mother at Sitio Inorogan whose image is said to have been found by three Agta hunters on top of a hill in Barangay Santo Domingo. In her honor, the Inorogan Nuestra Señora de las Angustias Chapel was built on the apparition site. Nestled on top of a hill, this sanctuary of faith and pilgrimage site offers a breathtaking view of Bicol’s fertile plains and a glimpse of distant Mount Mayon.
It is just as well that the city’s chief executive, Mayor Ronald Felix Alfelor, is an idealistic leader who believes that progress and tradition can co-exist to work for the common good. “While we are bent on upgrading our infrastructures and facilities to support the further economic growth of Iriga City, we also recognize the essential role of our culture and traditions,” he says.
He adds, “Iriga is developing fast as one of the region’s center of commerce, trade and education. In the wake of this development, we are also strengthening our cultural and tourism programs to bring focus to the other attractions of our city. After all, it is our rich and colorful traditions, and the beauty of our natural wonders that give us a sense of pride and identity as a people.”
Superstar country
At the start of the 20th century, when the flourishing commerce catapulted Manila as one of the premier ports in the Orient, there was a move to make mobility faster between the capital and the surrounding regions. In 1913 the Manila Railroad Co. Station was established in Iriga, transforming the city as a center of trade in the remote Rinconada area.
Years later, it was in these railroad tracks where the legend of Nora Aunor began. Her rags-to-riches story from water vendor in Iriga’s train station to showbiz superstar has embedded itself deep into Pinoy pop culture—making Nora an important icon in modern Philippine art and entertainment history.
The Irigueños’ passionate love for their own can be found in the new Iriga City Public Library. The shelves of books give way to the library’s most famous section: the Nora Aunor Nook. Gathered in this corner are rare photographs, biographies, movie posters, newspaper and magazine clippings, films, music, memorabilia from private collectors and personal albums from devoted fans—all tracing the rise and the enduring celebrity of Iriga’s most famous daughter.
Not surprisingly, the nook has turned the library into a tourist attraction. “We get thousands of visitors every year from Iriga and from all over the Philippines just to see the Nora Aunor Nook. Some even come from abroad to make a pilgrimage to Iriga in honor of Nora Aunor,” librarian Flora Salvadora says. Until today, she informs, the library gets materials from fans to add to the library’s already-prodigious collection of “Noraniana.”
Chili, coconut and other flavors
While laing and Bicol Express have become the token symbols of the fiery Bicolano cuisine, Irigueño cooking offers other dishes of equally rich and biting flavors. Visitors who want to get a sampling of authentic traditional Irigueño and Bicolano cooking will do well to hop over to MCM Restaurant and Bakeshoppe in San Roque. It offers such delicacies as Sarciadong Carpa made from freshly caught carp from Lake Buhi and sautéed in tomatoes, ginger and eggs. Sinarapan sa Gata is the world’s smallest fish, also from Lake Buhi, simmered in coconut milk. This has a rich flavor with a delectable hint of shrimps.
Those with more adventurous gastronomic predilections should not miss Kinunot. After the ban on shark fishing, stingray meat is now being used to make this popular appetizer. The stingray meat is stewed slowly in coconut cream and made tastier with malunggay leaves and finger chilies. Despite the mushrooming of fastfood restaurants in the city’s commercial hub, MCM Restaurant and Bakeshoppe continues to pack in old-timers, as well as visitors who yearn for the luscious flavors of home-cooked Irigueño cuisine.
Before we packed our bags for the trip back to Manila, Baylon handed over to us a woven gift basket. Among the bottles of sweet pili jam and boxes of candies were two other quaint Irigueño delicacies. There was a jar of Katnga, which is dried gabi leaves stewed in coconut milk, flavored with bagoong, and spiked with chili. In a shallow container was Guinataang Libi-Libi, an ornamental shrub whose young, nutty leaves are simmered in coconut milk with chunks of dried labahita to add a hint of the sea. She had requested a friend to cook this traditional dish especially for us—a delicious going-away token to help us remember the flavors of Iriga long after we’ve disappeared back into the hubbub of the megapolis.
Image credits: Vic Sevilla