THE Filipina—beautiful, innocent, modern—was front and center during the Binibining Pilipinas 2016 National Costume competition held at the Kia Theater in Araneta Center, in Cubao, Quezon City. Also in the spotlight was the creativity of the Filipino designers, who dressed the candidates in what they deemed are our country’s distinct, unique and identifiable clothing.
The Binibinis first showcased their fierceness onstage strutting in casual clothing by brand sponsor Jag, then turned feminine in their national costumes. This portion has no bearing on the 40 candidates’ final scores, but it’s a clear indicator whom of them has the patriotic fire to make the Philippines shine on the international arena.
Six finalists for Best in National Costume were chosen by fashion director Raymond Villanueva, artist Betsy Westendorp and TV executive Chit Guerrero. They are Binibini 14 Paula Rich Bartolome, wearing the design of Joel Acebuche; Binibini 38 Angelica Alita, wearing Bessie Besana; Binibini 19 Maria Lina Prongoso, wearing Polly Lagyap; Binibini 3 Angela Lauren Fernando, wearing Frederick Peralta; Binibini 27 Dindi Joy Pajares, wearing Cherry Samuya Veric; and Binibini 32 Jennyline Carla Malpaya. The winner will be announced on coronation night on April 17 at the Smart Araneta Coliseum.
“On the last day of submission of sketches to Bb. Pilipinas, Gian Quiballo asked me to do some studies for Paula’s national costume and evening gown. I said yes, only if he will do the painting, since he does it professionally. I did one sketch for each. Luckily, both were approved,” Acebuche said. “For the national costume, I designed a white terno made of silk gazar. I chose white to represent the simplicity of the Filipina and the hand-painted bamboo design to celebrate the resilience of the Filipino. Like the bamboo, as a nation we have weathered quite a lot of challenges and we remain strong.”
The designer recalled that his inspiration dated back to the summer of 2001 when he apprenticed at the Josie Natori shop in Malate: “At that time, the brand was introducing lingerie as outer wear, at the same time, developing motifs and inspiration for their collection. I presented some sketches with hand-painted bamboo prints inspired by Japanese watercolor paintings. I’ve always liked the bamboo—it’s calm, soothing and very Asian in nature. Though the collection didn’t push through, I always kept the idea with me that one day I’ll make use of those bamboo prints. And it has come.”
Lagyap designed a modest, crystallized terno for Prongoso. Peralta, the “defending champion” for his winning design worn by Teresita Ssen Marquez last year, found inspiration in the throwback glamour of the Carnival Queen days of the 1920s for his intricate creation for Fernando.
Besana designed the national costume for Binibining Pilipinas Intercontinental Christi Lynn McGarry on her way to finishing first runner-up at the international finals last year. “Right after the announcement of official candidates this year, I got a text from Binibini 38 Angelica Alita, asking if I could dress her up for the national costume for the pageant. I would admit that at first, I was a little hesitant because I know the effort needed to make a national costume, but I was deeply flattered by how Angel really wanted me to make her one. So I said yes. After two months of sourcing, sewing, sewing, more sewing and embellishing, my team and I came up with something we are very proud of: a modernized traje de mestiza,” he posted on his Facebook Wall.
“A traje de mestiza is an ensemble of a camisa, a panuelo and a saya. Often depicted using striped fabric, the skirt of the mestiza has evolved through times. This traje de mestiza features the traditional element of the 1800 ensemble coupled with a modern cut of the new millennium. The camisa and panuelo that are usually separates are joined together to make a bolero while the classic balloon skirt was converted to a modern serpentine cut,” he told me via Facebook Messenger. “The main fabric of the gown is gazar and the bottom has hundreds of lace appliques sewn in one by one. The bolero [camisa and panuelo combined] is jusi with embroidered lace sleeve accent. The whole Filipiniana is embellished with 15,000 stones.”
No stranger to joining beauty pageants himself, Jontie Martinez was visibly overjoyed when his “Galatea” daughter made the cut in his “popsicle orange neoprene serpentine terno embellished with blush-stud beadwork, rhinestones and pearls. The butterfly sleeves in silk chiffon extend to the floor to mimic angel wings.”
Designers referenced the sarimanok, Pearl of the Orient, Chinese porcelain, hulugan-panyo, Pintados, Maria Clara, coasts and sunsets and the Santacruzan, but the terno dominated the competition almost to a cloying degree. (I really loved Rhett Eala’s pink confection for Maria Mika Maxine Medina, though.) We need to see more of the Cordillera maiden (Kimberle Mae Penchon by Louis Pangilinan), Zamboanga lass (Angelique de Leon by Jearson Demavivas), Kadayawan Festival reveler (Kristine Angeli Estoque by John Cliff), Ati-Atihan punk chic (Rocky Gathercole) and the Philippine Eagle (Maria Gigante by Philipp Tampus).
Good thing designer Cherry Samuya Veric changed the derivative narrative somewhat, veering away from red-carpet formal wear and wedding finery to something intrinsically Filipino. He opted to show a Lumad-inspired indigenous design, “with geometric patterns evoking the earth and sky, the dress gives tribute to the inherent beauty of Lumad communities in Mindanao who struggle for peace, justice and land.”
Veric’s candidate, Binibini 27 Dindi Joy Pajares, also brought a gagong, a Lumad guitar.
He stated: “My Lumad-inspired gown is the only one to represent an indigenous Filipino community among the designs that made the top 6. It hopes to call attention to the plight of our neglected indigenous communities. It is time we paid attention to fellow Filipinos that we have ignored because they are far from Manila, poor, non-Catholic, and different from the rest of us. So, here’s to Binibining Pilipinas which promotes peace, justice and equality for all. Here’s to beauty, not bullets.”
Image credits: PHOTOS BY BRUCE CASANOVA FOR BINIBINING PILIPINAS