Despite its long history, the cuisine of China continues to evolve with traditional recipes creatively updated to suit the modern palate.

This is exactly what the Manila Pavilion Hotel did at its Chinese outlet, Peony Garden. The restaurant’s new menu features Malaysian-Cantonese dishes created by Chef Lee Fan Yeng so customers can enjoy both Malaysian and Cantonese food without having to travel to two different locations.

Lee, a native of Malaysia but who honed his culinary skills in the East Canton University, created 10 new sumptuous dishes that reflect his knowledge of two worlds that are, at the same time, similar but entirely different from each other.

Executive Chef Roger Perez stressed that the menu is not a fusion of the two cuisines but separate selections combined in one menu so guests could choose either the Cantonese-inspired food or the Malaysian ones. He further explained that Malaysian food is actually a mix of the various Chinese cuisines that reached Malaysia when the Chinese migrated there long ago.

The 10 courses presented during the recent press lunch was actually more Chinese than Malaysian. It started with the traditional appetizer platter of roast chicken, barbecue pork, jelly fish and century egg, then followed by clear, thick soup of braised shark’s fin bamboo pit with fish lips and sea cucumber.

The heavier stuff followed: a whole chicken braised to tenderness and combined with Chinese herbs; deep-fried fish fillet with a sprinkling of crispy fried butter, blending together a salty and sweet flavor; huge deep-fried prawns doused with the chef’s special sauce that has both a sweet and slightly spicy tang; cold white bean curd with minced pork, century egg and pickled lettuce on the side; and a vegetable dish of braised Chinese cabbage with carrots and radish coated with oyster sauce.

Instead of the usual fried rice, the chef prepared a soya egg noodle mixed with oyster sauce and topped with shredded pork, chicken and black mushroom with a boiled egg and vegetables on the side.

For dessert, there’s the ever reliable soft, deep-fried sesame balls made from glutinous rice and sweet lotus cream which is more popularly known as buchi; and cold sweetened black jelly mixed with fruits that are in season.

What also makes this selection new, Perez said, is that some items on the menu are more “Filipinized,” keeping in mind that although they serve Malaysian-Cantonese food, most of the patrons are still Filipinos.

“At the end of the day, our market is still the Filipinos,” Perez said.

Aside from the new selection, Peony Garden continues to serve its old signature dishes, such as braised whole abalone in oyster sauce, deep-fried prawns mixed with fruit salad and corn flakes, and the deep-fried crispy cuttlefish with butter and egg, keeping in mind its customers who enjoy these dishes, as well as those who have yet to experience the restaurant.

The ambiance at Peony Garden—whose name was derived from the traditional Chinese floral symbol that represents grace and nobility—is also noteworthy as it provides a very welcoming atmosphere of soft lights and classy but modern oriental designs. Guests are greeted by glass doors carved with Chinese artifacts and surrounded by thick wooden borders. Inside are large round tables perfect for family and social gatherings, as well as business meetings. An earth-color scheme is used with red, gold and brown hues highlighted under the mellow radiance of Chinese-inspired chandeliers. Various Chinese furniture also adorn the restaurant, giving it a sophisticated oriental look.

With its combination of fine food and elegant ambiance, Peony Garden is a place where one could experience a journey that would certainly excite the senses.

(Rachel P. Salud)