Story & photos by Bernard L. Supetran
There was a time when the distant shores and powdery beaches in the southern Philippines were just a pipe dream because of the prohibitive airfares, and Metro Manilans had to content themselves with the so-called excursions in nearby weekend getaways.
Among the favorite destinations then was Norzagaray, tucked in Bulacan’s interior roads, just at the north eastern doorstep of the big city. Called fondly as “Garay”, it is an unheralded tourist destination, especially for those who love the great outdoors and the simple joys of a no-frills back-to-basics excursion.
It is so near that tourists often look past it in search of adventures in a province far, far away.
Garay can easily be accessed via the Bocaue Exit of the North Luzon Expressway (Nlex) even by public transportation. Visitors are welcomed at the Poblacion by the Monument of Spanish Governor-General Fernando de Norzagaray, who decreed its creation in 1860, separating it from Angat town.
An exciting alternative route is via Fairview, Quezon City, and San Jose del Monte City if you want to pedal or motor your way to this town, which would like to be known as a haven for two-wheeled vehicles.
Its topography is generally flat and becomes undulating and hilly near the foot of the Sierra Madre Mountain ranges. The town sits by the Angat River belt, which is at 20 meters to 50 meters above sea level (MASL), making it relatively cooler than the metropolis.
With a hilly terrain and a meandering river that runs through it, Garay is an ideal ecotourism and adventure getaway worth rediscovering.
Angat River Hydroelectric Plant, the town’s tourism icon, is the country’s biggest in terms of power-generation capacity and a major source of potable water. With a reservoir ridge spanning 37-kilometer and 6,155 hectares covered with watershed forests, the dam is best viewed from the view deck at 212 MASL, which provides an exhilarating panorama as cool, crisp mountain air caresses your skin.
A must-visit is the tell-tale Bakas River, a portion of the Angat River, which literally means “footprint,” alluding to the footprints of the mythical prehistoric giant Bernardo Carpio. Legend says that the other footprint is on the other side of the mountain in Wawa Dam in Montalban, Rizal. Bakas is noted for its big natural white stones along the banks, the green scenery surrounding it, the fresh air and the cool and calm current. The river resort offers refreshing and inexpensive picnics reminiscent of the good old days.
Nestled at the foot of the Sierra Mountain range, scenic Bitbit River offers two adventures—jumping onto the river’s deep portion from the 20-foot boulders or rapelling down a 100-foot bridge. Similar to the topography of Bakas, you can dip in its icy water or picnic in the river bank huts.
Upstream is Ipo Dam, a component of the Angat River Hydroelectric system, which saw fierce battles between American and Japanese troops in 1945 during the closing months of World War II. Aside from the National Historical Commission’s historical brass plaque, there is a couple of memorial markers attesting to its vital role during the war.
Another must-see is Pinagrealan Cave, a subterranean network of caverns extending more than a kilometer deep, which figured in history as refuge of Katipunero freedom fighters during the 1896 Revolution against Spain and again during the Filipino-American War in 1899 as a hideout of General Emilio Aguinaldo, then-president of the First Philippine Republic. It was also used as a garrison by the Japanese Imperial Army when the American liberation troops came.
Hilltop, monikered as the “Baguio of Bulacan”, is a breathtaking vista of the Sierra Madre Range, which mesmerizes visitors. This is a favorite spot for bikers to gaze at the land below after pedaling around the roads less traveled. It has a park for camping and swimming, and riverbank cottages, which lure locals and tourists alike for a refreshing dip.
If Garay beckons you to stay overnight, there are several resort hotels where you can linger a little longer. Adventure Resort, of the bigger accommodation facilities, has giant slides and recreational adventure, such as an outdoor wall and a zipline mounted on a replica of the Eiffel Tower. You can also tour the world’s famous landmarks through the smaller versions, the Statue of Liberty, Great Wall of China and the map of the Mediterranean Europe.
Falcon Crest Resort is superb for true-blue adventurers with its obstacle courses, rope course and team-building facilities for groups and families. Tucked in the middle of nowhere, it has become one of the preferred team-building destinations near the metropolis with its simple but adrenaline-pumping exercises.
Family-oriented resorts are Galilee Wonderland, which has a Noah’s Ark-inspired park, and Malamig Park Resort, which sports a superhero motif and has a wave pool with rainbow-colored night lights.
For quiet moments away from the madding crowd, there is Saint John Mary Vianney Retreat House, which has a landscaped uphill garden, which takes you closer to heaven, quite literally. Come chow time, you can feast on all-time favorites at the native-themed JL Jamie’s Restaurant, which boasts of, perhaps, the crunchiest crispy pata you’ll ever bite.
If you can’t kick your craving for brewed coffee, swing by Kangay, a fast casual café, which also serves Pinoy dishes with a contemporary twist, as well as pasta, sandwiches, pastries and shakes. A vernacular word for feasting, Kangay is jocularly called the conjugation of a local trait—kain and tangay, or “eat and take out”, which is not too far-fetched, considering its tasty offerings.
With its natural wonders too charming to ignore, Norzagaray hopes to recapture its place as a top getaway—and hideaway—at the doorstep of the metropolis.