THE skies that only yesterday stretched out in the horizon a dazzling blue had gone gray, moody and dirty, with even darker clouds roiling ominously in plan view promising of rains heavier than what was already blanketing the island, the accompanying strong winds lending all vegetation in a furious sensual dance, their bodies glistening in the rain and contrasting ever so magnificently against the gray pallor the island had assumed.
That might read like the opening tableau of Karel Reisz’s haunting adaptation of John Fowles’s complex and romantic novel The French Lieutenant’s Woman, the 1982 film that brought the great Meryl Streep the first of her 13 Oscar Best Actress nominations. Instead, it was the September morning that greeted me in Boracay some years ago, then only my third trip to the island—and still the most stimulating time I ever had on the so-called new summer capital of the Philippines.
Indeed, there is something about Boracay that becomes lost in the madness of summer, when a sizeable number of the country’s entire population converge on the island to experience its famous powdery white sand and cool blue waters—along with its infamous beachfront party scene where most everybody invariably gets drunk like 20-year-olds pushing 40.
In the off-season, specifically during the rainy months from July to September, Boracay treats its guests to a glimpse of what it was like before fame—and the notoriety that invariably accompanies it—transformed that strip of the island into virtually an adjunct of Malate in the late ’80s-early ’90s. Sitting in a quaint beachfront café post-breakfast, I enjoyed my second cup of strong brewed coffee and a cigarette in relative tranquility, the cacophony of humanity now no more than a muted buzz. A massive network of fishnets had been strung and spread out from coconut tree to coconut tree as a buffer from the strong winds and to protect everyone from the gusts of sand that become typical during this time of the year. Out in the beach, only a few hardy souls took to the shoreline under the moderate drizzle, with the occasional dog or two wandering aimlessly about against the bleak backdrop of gray skies and stirring waters.
Boracay at this time of the year seems to move just a few seconds more slowly, it would seem, and to anyone looking to it for a real break from the madness of urban life, this is as close to bliss as one will get on the island—and, even better, at a fraction of what it would typically cost during the crazy summer months.
Weary souls looking for a weekend idle can enjoy a Triple A-rated getaway at Boracay Garden Resort, once an eyesore on the island as Hotel Seraph and now an lovely oasis transformed by Henann Resort, a subsidiary of the Boracay Regency Group (the Boracay Regency Resort and Convention Center and the Regency Lagoon Resort Boracay are its other famous leisure properties on the island).
The resort is offering as an off-season treat until November 13 a three-day, two-night package that includes land and sea transfers via Caticlan plus daily breakfast buffet under a twin-sharing accommodation in one of its marvelously appointed suites with Wi-Fi access—all that for the price of P3,883 net per person.
Since coming under the ownership and management of Henann Resorts in late 2009, Boracay Garden—located right smack in the middle of Station 2—has blossomed into a an exquisite retreat for those seeking relief from the hurly-burly of the city or even the infamous beachfront scene itself. The resort spreads out to some 2 hectares, the most generous cut of prime real estate among all the resorts thereby providing guests much-desired breathing room and all that invigorating fresh air without ever requiring them to be anywhere near the shoreline.
Besides giving the resort’s facade a marvelous makeover and refurbishing all the rooms, Henann Resorts has undertaken—and is undertaking—a comprehensive reconfiguration of the resort’s amenities to bring it to the award-winning standards of the Boracay Regency Group. New to the resort is the modern Asian-themed Garden Café, a lovely pocket of gastronomic adventures that specializes in Asian cuisines, where the menu is changed very so often to keep things interesting for the taste buds of guests.
The café looks out to yet another new feature of the resort’s: a fabulous new pool—an addition to the two existing pools—which channels the fabulous aesthetics of the ones found in Boracay Garden’s sister resorts. Shimmering from its deep sapphire tiles, the pool is framed by beautifully lush landscaping on one end and an array of classic lounging chairs on the other, and the whole vibe one gets is almost borderline Miami nice.
According to the handsome Alfonso Chusuey, assistant to the president of Henann Resorts, “Boracay Garden Resorts will continue to evolve until it has reached the standards that Henann Resorts has come to be known for. We are midway through with the renovations, which need to be undertaken while always keeping the comfort of our guests in mind. That would seem like two conflicting interests, but thankfully we’ve been managing things pretty well.”
To most people, Boracay may be all about sand, sea and sun, but there’s magic to be found in this island paradise even when the partygoers have returned to the city and the skies have become overcast. Just ask Sarah Woodruff.
***A partner of Boracay Garden Resort, South East Asian Airlines (Seair) flies to Caticlan multiple times daily. For bookings: www.flyseair.com. For Boracay Garden Resort: www.boracaygarden.com.ph or e-mail This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it .
