Nestled between the Bicol region’s remotest town of Bulan in Sorsogon and the picturesque island of Ticao in Masbate is Ticao Pass, whose strategic location has played an important role in Philippine history since the Spanish colonial times.
According to former History and Literature teacher Manuel “NongNong” Altarejos, the Ticao Pass served as the passage to the Philippines, the port of entry for the historical Acapulco-Manila Galleon Trade which was the first known Trans-Pacific trade between the Americas and East Asia. The trade, which flourished for 250 years, transported the best of Philippine goods to the other side of the globe. “It followed the route via Mexico, through the port of Acapulco, then over land to Vera Cruz, until our wares reached Spain and other parts of Europe,” NongNong describes.
Remarkably, he adds, Ticao Pass also became the historical venue of some of the fiercest naval battles ever mounted in the country, foremost of which were the Battles of La Naval de Manila, fought in 1646, and the Battle of Leyte Gulf in 1944.
With Ticao’s rich historical connection and innate charm, it was no surprise that NongNong’s elder sister, Marilyn Altarejos, decided to touch base on the island the second time around.
“I am a full-fledged Ticaoena, born and raised in San Jacinto, the capital of the island,” Marilyn boasts. She remembers her childhood days with fondness, growing up in a quaint town with a festive atmosphere, celebrating the town’s many fiestas with all-night dancing at the plaza. “People on the island were very close—they knew each and every one—so the feeling of security was very strong.”
She left the island for Manila to pursue a nursing course at the University of Santo Tomas, then got married, and started to raise a family. “I was pregnant with my child, Janna, when my father, the late Cesar Altarejos, convinced me to buy a property in Ticao from a relative. It is one of the best locations on the island,” she narrates. From then on, she acquired more and more pieces of land adjacent to her property, until she was able to accumulate almost 70 hectares through the years.
One day, her cousin and bosom buddy, FitaArcenas, chided her, “You’ve always dreamed of a house in the middle of the rice fields, but you went into the city. So why don’t you fulfill your dream now?” Fita’s challenge led Marilyn to build a vacation house right at the peak of the property which provides a breathtaking view of the Ticao Pass. It was, indeed, the perfect setting for her early retirement.
That was, of course, her original plan—until fate intervened. In 2003, while surveying the Ticao Pass, the Large Marine Vertebrates Project, a marine conservation project run by a group of passionate scientists and volunteers, came across a school of manta rays feeding on a dense plankton bloom. Their study led to the discovery of Manta Bowl, a submerged seamount lying in the shallow part of Ticao Pass where gigantic manta rays and whale sharks (butanding) gather to feed on the thickest concentration of plankton in the country. It is believed that the strong currents of nearby San Bernardino Strait push large groups of plankton and other organisms to gather in the Manta Bowl. This depression has also become an attraction to other pelagics like hammerheads, thresher sharks, dogfish sharks, spotted wobbegong sharks, and barracudas, virtually turning the Ticao Pass into a perfect diving spot. The news quickly spread like wildfire, particularly among the divers around the world, all eager and excited to explore the “new” territory. But with the onset of local and international tourist arrivals, it was apparent that Ticao Island needed better resort facilities to accommodate the more discerning individuals.
So true to her Ticaoena roots, Marilyn heeded the call, her way of “giving back” to the island that raised her. Without batting an eyelash, she turned 15 hectares of her property into a nature-themed, eco-friendly boutique resort and called it Altamar Ticao Island Resort (www.ticaoaltamar.com). Literally meaning High Seas, Altamar is also a clever derivative of her name: ALTA-rejos, MAR-ilyn. Together with her talented brother, Engr. Kennedy Altarejos, who designed and built the structures and the entire beach resort based on her ideas, Marilyn opened the business to the public in 2010. Her goal has always been simple: Target families and friends who look for wholesome fun and adventure, and offer activities that will not disrupt the ecological balance of the island.
To date, Altamar Beach Resort offers the best accommodations on the island complete with fully air-conditioned rooms and well-appointed cottages and casitas located right at the beachfront. Renovating her vacation house, Marilyn has turned it into the three-story Manor House, fully furnished with a living room, two dining areas, a kitchen, and a veranda that reveals a magnificent view of Ticao Pass.
Marilyn’s inimitable stamp of good taste and elegant style provides the personal touch to the boutique resort. Various objets d’art, created by her famous artist friends and which are great conversation pieces, mingle pretty well with her wide collection of antiquities. At the top of the house are three spacious bedrooms spruced up in old English country style. The imposing Oriental Suite, occupying an entire floor, has its own library of old maps and rare books, along with a living area that displays prominently her priceless collection of antique celadon jars and blue and white porcelain items. Needless to say, it can match the most expensive suites of any 5-star hotel in the country.
“Every business is both a challenge and an opportunity,” Marilyn notes. She finds it amazing that her well-satisfied guests whom they showered with hometown hospitality are largely responsible for spreading the good word about her boutique resort. In a brief span of time, they have entertained guests from as far as Russia, Sweden, Spain and South Africa, and from neighboring Asian countries like Japan and China.
The guests have been as varied as their nationalities: Sir Johannssen is an engineer who constructed the US embassy in South Africa; Jonathan Byrd is a photo journalist of the prestigious National Geographic magazine; and Orian Arthansson is a physicist from Sweden who wrote simply on the guestbook: “The loveliest place I ever stayed on in my whole life….”
Upon reading Orian’s piece, Marilyn feels a renewed sense of fulfillment. “Yes, it may just be a brief remark,” she exclaims, “but it is worth all the years of hard work I dedicated to my beloved hometown.”
2 comments
Nice article about a nice place, but the name of the physicist from Sweden is quite misspelt. His real name is Orjan Arthursson. I should know because I’m that guy! 🙂
I should have read this article before. It’s only now while I was browsing over the internet did I ever thought of looking at my roots, if only to fill up some more inputs to complete my book of reflections. Then, I stumbled on Ate Marilyn’s piece of paradise. How I wish I could set foot on ALTAMAR one day just to satisfy my unfulfilled curiosity. May you have more and more patrons to savor the hidden beauty of this beach resort! See you soon and best regards to everybody!