Story & photos By Lualhati Perez
Many seasoned travelers and true-blue adventurers who have been to the island province of Catanduanes have likened it a diamond in the rough—it has crude edges, but its true beauty will sparkle once polished.
Once known as the path of destructive storms, today it is a tourism frontier that beckons travelers looking for well-kept secrets off the beaten path.
Located off the eastern seaboard of mainland Bicol, Catanduanes used to be part of Albay and was carved out as an independent province in 1945.
While typhoons still pass through its corridor and still a point of reference because of the Philippine Atmospheric, Geophysical and Astronomical Services Administration (Pag-asa) Observatory, folks say that the more destructive ones are now as rare as a blue moon.
According to Catanduanes Gov. Araceli Wong, the province is slowly shedding its typhoon-belt image by gearing up for ecotourism and adventure special events.
Among these, she said, are the Enduro Challenge where mountain bikers braved the off-the-beaten paths of Virac; the Viga Photo Adventure Camp; the Reef Break surfing tourney; and the province’s One Tourist, One Tree program which requires visitors to plant seedlings in identified reforestation areas.
Wong said that with this thrust, the province hopes to increase its share of the Bicol region’s booming tourist arrivals with its adventure, nature and culture attractions.
The “Majestic Waves” in Puraran, Baras, is the province’s main draw, and is so-called because of its long magnificent barrel, which lures the top surfers both here and abroad.
But those averse to the waves can frolic in its powdery cream sand beaches and unspoiled clear waters.
Mother Nature has gifted Catanduanes with fine beaches, breath-taking capes and idyllic isles all over the province, which takes one back to the island getaway minus the madding crowd.
In the capital town of Virac, there are the beaches of Igang, Amenia and Batag, a coral-strewn beach whose charm is enhanced by a rock archway.
Igang is home to Twin Rocks Beach Resort, which takes pride with its adventure facilities—a zipline, outdoor wall and accommodation amenities that are among the best locally. It is so-called because of the two awesome rock formations, which are among the province’s tourist icons.
Amenia Beach, situated on Virac’s western coast, is the best place for sunset gazing with its calm waters and the perfect-coned Mayon Volcano in the horizon. It also has good lodging facilities and kayaks so guests can explore the vast expanse of water.
Because of its rugged terrain, the province also abounds with waterfalls, whose enchanting cascades and refreshing waters cast a spell on nature lovers. Maribina Falls in Bato is the most frequented because of its shallow multilayered basins.
Up north in Bagamanoc is Paday Falls, which boasts of a tall drop which empties into the sea, and is a sight to behold.
A short boat ride away from the town is Loran Beach on Panay Island, which has its own patch of fine beach and tranquil environs. Deriving its name from Long Range Aid to Navigation, it was a former American outpost in the 1950s to guide ships in the Pacific. The ruins of its barracks still proudly stand atop a hill with a commanding view of the ocean.
Bagamanoc is a trekker’s haven with its hiking trails across hilly pasture lands and ends in pockets of beaches. The town’s most recognizable natural feature is Ilihan islet, which is more popularly known as “Boto ni Kurakog” because of its phallic-shaped rock formation. The subject of many old wives’ tales, it is said that Kurakog was a giant whose body was washed away by the waves after a deep slumber and it was only the protruding 5-meter rock column that remained.
Across it is a limestone rock which has a shapely crevice dubbed as “Buri ni Kalarab” and whose origin is as intriguing as Kurakog’s legend.
Meanwhile, Panganiban town is another best-kept secret with its picturesque cape of Lolong Point where an imposing lighthouse proudly stands on a hill beside a placid beachfront where time seems to stop.
Catandunganons display their faith in their religious spots such as the postcard-pretty Spanish-era Virac Cathedral, Saint John the Baptist Church and the Batalay Shrine, both located in Bato town.
The latter is the Diocesan Shrine of the Holy Cross, the burial place of Augustinian Fr. Diego de Herrera who died there in the 1576. The priest, who journeyed with Spanish conquistadors Legazpi and Urdaneta, is the first Catholic missionary to the province.
Another must-see is the Luyang Cave Park in San Andres where scores of natives were choked to death in the 17th century by Moro pirates by burning red pepper. A dry cave, Luyang is often used for adventure races as it leads into a clearing on the other side of the mountain, en route to a trail to the town proper.
For a glimpse of local heritage, swing by at the Catanduanes Museum, a repository of historical and archaeological implements attesting to the province’s rich past. On the third floor of the restored Old Capitol Building, it is on the same spot of the Provincial Tourism Office which is a first stop for every visitor for registration and information gathering.