EIGHTEENTH-CENTURY British literary giant Horace Walpole coined the word serendipity, which meant a fortunate happenstance based on a letter to a friend in his fairy tale, The Three Princes of Serendip
In his letter, the princes were always making discoveries, by accidents, of things which they were not looking for.
Two centuries later, this pleasant surprise could very well refer to the charming southern getaway of Surigao, dubbed the “The City of Island Adventures.” It has the unique characteristic of having 17 islands and islets and 21 barangays, and for beach bums, that could only mean lovely shores, 20 times over with pockets of coves and crystal-clear water here and there.
The provincial capital of Surigao del Norte, the city is an archipelagic paradise, with a merry mix of sun, sea, sand, seafood and everything in between.
For a long time, it was known as the country’s nickel capital due to its abundant deposits, reputed to be the biggest in the world. But beyond the minerals in the mountain’s bosom, it is a virtual minefield of natural wonders, which have been overshadowed by its mining industry.
Declared a city on August 30, 1970, it has preserved its rustic allure, despite the creeping urbanization. With its quaint charm hidden for so long a time, it has come out of its cocoon to showcase its countryside splendor.
In its recent 46th charter day fete, Mayor Ernesto Matugas cited Surigao’s journey to progress and its emergence as a tourism and business hub in the Caraga region.
Idyllic islands. Adventure begins in Basul island, a fine-sand beach which is just a paddling distance away from the post Almont Beach Resort in the outskirt village of Lipata.
Dotted by coconut trees swaying in the breeze, it is a solitary world, minus the madding crowd of developed resorts. Its only facilities are nipa huts and crude wooden benches, but who cares? It is not every day you can have a tropical retreat like this unto yourself.
An interesting escape is Hikdop island, which boasts of short strip of fine-sand beach of Panomboyom and the Buenavista Cave, which impressive limestone formations, stalagmites, stalactites and magnificent columns will surely capture your fancy. Its main village, Buenavista—which literally means “good view”—offers an exhilarating vantage point of the archipelago.
A unique attraction is the 391-meter wooden footbridge, which connects the island barangays of Cantiasay and San Pedro, the longest of its kind in the country. With its snaking length, it is the city’s little version of the iconic San Juanico Bridge, which connects two land masses.
Other idyllic isles worth exploring are Zaragoza, Berok, Danawan, Sumilom, Sibale and Sagisi, which are as alluring as their exotic-sounding names. The city’s newest tourist spot is the 20-meter wide Bitaugan Whirlpool in Bayagnan Island, a rare tidal occurrence, which is a sight to behold with its swirling water and rippling sound, which can be witnessed from a safe distance.
Looc and Mabua-Ipil beaches, in the city’s fringes, boast of smooth, multi-sized pebbles dissected by a cape where you can capture a sweeping view of both coastal areas. Dissected by a hill, both beaches can be seen by ascending a 100-step staircase, but the uphill trek is rewarded by a commanding view of the sea and mountain as they meet in the horizon. Day-Asan Floating Village, monikered the “Little Venice of Surigao,” offers a quaint view of houses on stilts amongst the mangrove forests, which can be accessed only by boat.
A terrestrial wonder is Silop Cave System, a must-see with its 12 chambers and impressive limestone formation, stalagmites, stalactites and columns, which is fit even for beginners. Carved by the Creator’s hands, this cave system has caught the attention of Philippine Speleological Society, the country’s largest congregation of cavers, which held their congress here a few years back.
Beneath the surface of the sea, Surigao is an emerging dive spot with its lush marine life formed by the confluence of rich bodies of water. Scuba divers can plunge into the wondrous water world of Punta Bilar.
Featured by Born to Be Wild TV program twice, the coral-rich marine sanctuary abounds in nudibranchs, notably the “Spanish dancer,” juvenile bamboo sharks, moray eels, cuttlefishes, octopus and an assortment of aquatic wildlife.
Punta Bilar Dive Center can also take you to the other unheralded and undiscovered scuba spots around Surigao’s northern coasts.
Cultural spots. For a glimpse of Surigao’s checkered past, swing by the Museo nan Surigao Heritage Center, a private archaeological and geological museum at the bayside boulevard.
Another historical whistlestop is the Battle of Surigao Strait Museum at the Luneta Park, which chronicles World War II’s last major naval encounter where US forces routed the Japanese Navy on October 25, 1944, after Douglas MacArthur’s return.
Across it is the City Hall, which bears a historical plaque memorializing the first raising of the Philippine flag in Mindanao by Filipino revolutionaries on December 26, 1898, which ended Spanish rule.
But perhaps, the most vibrant manifestation of Surigao’s rich culture is the annual Bonok-Bonok Maradjaw Karadjaw Festival, a ritual dance, which originated from the indigenous Mamanwa tribe. A sought-after fest, Bonok-Bonok means heavy downpour,” while Maradjaw Karadjaw means “all the very best,” based on the belief that the heavy rains ensure the bountiful harvest.
Set on September 9, the festivity was later attributed to Saint Nicholas of Tolentino, the city’s patron saint, whose feast is observed the next day.
Street dancers in colorful regalia paint the town red with well-choreographed dance steps and scintillating music through bugles and percussion, with the “festival queen” or head dancer holding Saint Nicholas’s image.
Succulent cuisine. Surrounded by sea, Surigao also offers an exciting culinary journey in the Tilaw Food Festival which showcases it local cuisine comprised mostly of seafood.
The city’s dining scene is also pulsating with the wide array of mid-range restaurants offering grilled and kinilaw (vinegared) aquatic harvest. For a night cap, there are bars with live bands, music lounges, and home-grown coffeeshops, which serve as nocturnal watering holes.
You can sink your teeth in the signature sayungsong, asticky rice snack wrapped in banana leaves produced in the coastal barangay of Mabua.
With its concoction of adventure, nature and culture, Surigao City is definitely serendipity.
Getting there: Surigao can be reached via daily direct flights from Manila and Cebu. Budget travelers can stay at Le Chard Place, which is near the airport and the mall, while the more sophisticated ones can stay at Hotel Tavern or Almont Resort Hotel, the city’s top accommodations.