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BEFORE
leaving his
Paris apartment every day, designer Karl Lagerfeld sorts
through a large platter filled with chunky silver rings,
deftly slipping his selections onto his fingers until
his hands resemble medieval armored gloves.
He likes
the smell of construction sites, buys iPods like other
people pick up paper towels and can sleep only if he’s
hugging a security pillow to his stomach.
These
are a few of the details revealed in Lagerfeld
Confidential, a new documentary on the designer who
transformed the ailing Chanel brand into one of the
world’s most coveted labels and became a celebrity
himself along the way.

KARL LAGERFELD walking the
runway at the end of his Spring Prêt-à-Porter 2008 show
for Chanel.
The
89-minute film, which will debut in Los Angeles on
December 14, is far from an expose. By his own
admission, French filmmaker Rodolphe Marconi wasn’t
concerned with digging up dirt or delving into
Lagerfeld’s psyche. He was content to roll tape while
Lagerfeld got on with his busy life, which includes lots
of talking on his cell phones, conferring with
assistants and riding shotgun in sleek black cars.
The
resulting footage lacks much intrigue (the camera
dawdles on sunsets, ocean waves), but offers a portrait
of a compulsively creative person who’s accustomed to
being on top, yet is convinced that he will one day be
forgotten.
And it
seems that as his career has escalated to Mount
Everest-like heights, Lagerfeld’s personal life has
simmered to a hum (he is 74 years old, after all). The
designer keeps few close friendships, has no interest in
dating and, above all else, prizes solitude “to recharge
his battery.”
The few
interviews in the film unveil only shards of Lagerfeld’s
past (as a child he was “spoiled and unbearable,” he
says, and had a mother whose love had to be earned).
Still, you walk away from Lagerfeld Confidential
feeling as if you’ve had one-on-one time with the
designer—his larger-than-life façade having been
thinned, if only in a few places.
We
caught up with Marconi to talk about his experiences
inside the house of Lagerfeld:
Lagerfeld is famously private. How were you able to get
the access that you did?
I called
his PR and told her I wanted to make a film about him.
She said there are 100 people who want to do that, and
he always says no. I kept calling, and we had two
lunches. Then one day she called me and said, “You have
lunch tomorrow at Karl’s.” During lunch, he asked, “What
kind of film do you want to do?” I said, “I don’t know.
I just want to stay as close as possible to you.” I
didn’t want anything to manipulate how it turned out. I
wanted audiences to see what I have seen. When I left
his house that night, he offered me a jacket with a
skull on it and said, “When do you want to begin?” I
said I didn’t know. He said, “OK, let’s start tomorrow.”
And I knew I had to get a camera and begin.
How long
were you trailing him?
I asked
to stay with him for four months and I stayed two years.
I had something like 350 hours of footage. For the first
year, I was with him every day. In the second year, it
was for small (amounts) of time. I was always shooting.
You always have this feeling with him that there will be
another thing—that you can have more. So you keep going.
What is
your impression of him as a person?
It’s
very difficult to answer this question, because he’s so
different all the time. Sometimes he says things so
clearly, so straight. Then he will tell you the exact
opposite the next day. As a (filmmaker) you always feel
like you’ve never won—you never got anything. Everything
can always change with him. That’s why it was difficult.
He’s very indifferent about so many things—except
himself.
Was
anything off-limits to you?
He never
told me, “I don’t want you to shoot that.” There were
things, though. One day, he spoke all evening about the
big love in his life (French aristocrat Jacques de
Bascher, who died of AIDS in 1989), but I didn’t have
the camera with me. When I began to speak about the sex
and love affairs with the camera on, I didn’t want to
try to get him to say all of that. I knew the story was
very personal and there was a lot of sadness for him. I
wanted just to respect that.
When he
took bows on the runway, you were right on his back with
the camera. Was he immediately game to have you do this?
I was
backstage all night the first time, thinking, “I would
love to be with the camera on the catwalk.” I asked if I
could, and everyone said no, it’s not possible. Then
three seconds before Karl goes out, I said, “Do you
think I can come?” And he looked at me and said
nothing—it was like a secret between him and me. So I
went.
The
second time it was at a huge fashion show with Nicole
Kidman. I did the same thing again, and Karl said no,
that it would be very complicated because he had to go
pick up Nicole (at the end of the runway). But when the
moment arrived, Karl turned to me and just said, “Go.”
He talks
about knowing that he was gay at age 11 or so. Did he
date anyone within the two years you were filming?
No. He
told me one day, “I cannot and I don’t want another
relationship because it’s going to erase the
relationship I had [with De Bascher].”
Were you
with him when he first saw the film? What was his
reaction?
During
the editing, I didn’t want to see him anymore. So after
one year, I called him and said, “I have to show you the
film.” I needed Karl’s authorization to release the
film...that was the way I wanted it to be; there was no
contract or anything. We sat in a big screening room,
just him and me. I was so scared.
When it
was over, he turned to me and said that he thought it
was very modern and poetic. The most beautiful present
was, he didn’t ask me to cut anything. |