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    By C. Mendez Legaspi
    Photographed by Ramon Tan Mangila,
    Pix Republic Studios
     

    It is to Inno Sotto’s brilliant flash of insight and exercise in discipline that in a fashion season marked by excess, he opts for restraint and resplendence. In Alhambra, his recent calculated showcase at the Makati Shangri-La with current accessories darling Bea Valdes, the increasingly inaccessible designer delivered a visceral and virtuoso presentation.

    Volumes and plumes ruled the runway as one fantastic creation after another was showed off by select models who underwent workshops under director Ariel Lozada, like in previous important Sotto shows. The stunning entrance of a dress was just as dramatic as its exit. Front details were as significant as the backside, as in the green plunging gown worn by JP Abinuman, Ria Bolivar’s silk taffeta high-necked gown with feathers and bubble sleeves, and Jasmine Maierhofer’s black gowns.

    As in every Sotto showcase, elegance is underscored as the designer refuses to be ensnared by trends, encumbered by gimmicks or cowed by the scarcity of materials. His brilliance and longevity lie in the delicate divide between satiating his own creative needs, as well as pleasing his ever-growing clientele.

    Inspired by his trip to Alhambra, Spain, where Christians and Moors live in relative convergence, the collection—as well as Valdes’s breathtaking bags and dangling pieces—is replete with religious imagery, striking colors, El Greco references and Franciscan riffs.

    Sotto’s distinct class and sophistication can easily be identified with his choice of luxurious fabric, such as silk, taffeta, chiffon, Chantilly lace, crêpe de chine and four-ply crêpe. Daywear pieces had apparent principles of couture engineered into them, like in Grace Tagle’s pink pantsuit and Raya Mananquil’s mustard marvel.

    Sotto knows too well that his clothes have an exceedingly fluent vocabulary, but in a halting speech, he admitted: “I am not one to stand in front of an audience at the start of a show. I am dying a thousand deaths.” He then went on to thank society doyenne Imelda Cojuangco for chairing the event.

    “In my last three shows in the last four years, the Virlanie Foundation has been the beneficiary.” It is a private, nonsectarian child-caring institution that has staunch advocates among Monaco’s royalty who have come to the country to lend their support.

    This year the incomparable Isabel Preysler was the guest of honor. As eloquent as she is glamorous, she was able to sum up Sotto’s place in the field of fashion: “For more than 20 years, Inno Sotto has flourished and reached new heights. He has achieved the highest rank of his profession. I believe in and praise his Filipino creativity.”

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