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Blue is
a common dye in clothing or textiles. There is the
centuries-old and very popular blue denim, the royal
blue of the British monarchy or the blue in national
flags. But have you ever wondered where the blue color
came from and the current status of indigo dye in the
country?
Philippine indigo (Indigofera tinctoria) is one of the
oldest dyes in civilization and one of the most widely
used natural dyes in the world due to its excellent
colorfastness properties. Actually, it was once
extensively used in the weaving industry in the country,
such as in the abel of Ilocos and the Abrenian fabrics.
The
Philipine indigo has been part of the galleon and
Chinese trade in northern Philippines centuries ago.
However, the production of cheaper synthetic indigo
eased it out of the market and caused its rapid decline,
not only in the country but all over the world.
In the
Philippines, former First Lady Amelita “Ming” Ramos
initiated the revival of indigo dyeing. She became the
patroness of natural dyes and spearheaded the Katutubong
Kulay Project of the Katutubong Filipino Foundation in
the early ’90s.

The
transfer and commercialization of the Philippine Textile
Research Institute (PTRI)-developed technology on indigo
in Abra revived and upgraded the age-long tradition of
using tayum, the local name of indigo in Abra. In fact,
a town in Abra was aptly named Tayum, reportedly because
of the abundance of naturally growing indigo in the
place. Tayum is where Abra’s Natural Dye Center is
located.
Among
the PTRI technologies on natural dyes, indigo is the
most commonly requested for dyeing services and
prototyping by interested clients. Indigo in textile
silkscreen printing has, likewise, broadened the horizon
for the developed indigo powder.
The
versatility of indigo as a dye and as a pigment for
printing provides the impetus for the continued advocacy
in popularizing Philippine indigo in local and
international textile scene.
Indigo
is among the four priority natural-dye sources in the
Philippine Council for Agriculture, Forestry and Natural
Resources Research and Development (PCAARD)-assisted
Department of Science and Technology-Grants in Aid
(DOST-GIA) project at the Aklan State University (ASU).
An area in the campus yields sufficient fresh indigo
plant, which can already be used as crude liquid dye.
Its powder-form counterpart, however, yields even deeper
and darker shades.
PTRI is
continuously undertaking process improvement in the
production of indigo powder not only for dyeing but also
for textile printing. The PCARRD-PTRI-ASU project also
enables PTRI to help identify cultural-management
practices suitable for indigo growing through the
assessment of the indigo powder and the evaluation of
the dyed materials.
Soumak
Collection, which is currently operating PTRI’s Natural
Dye Center in a technology business incubation
arrangement, is another recipient of the Institute’s
indigo technologies. The growing demand of Soumak
Collection for indigo prompted ASU to plant an initial
one-hectare area inside its Banga Campus. Seedlings have
already germinated and will be ready for transplanting
in a few weeks. With this business arrangement, the
commercial revival of indigo dyeing is bound to stir the
market.
Kingsmen
Corp., likewise, launched its Bahaghari Collection. The
premium collection, developed with PTRI, showcases its
new line of colored piña barong, including indigo dyed,
to yield blue to deep blue shades, and green.
Mariana
Fashion Apparels, maker of Miguel Barongs, likewise,
launched its kaLIKHAsan Collection, featuring
ready-to-wear barong that are available in shopping
malls.
Fil-Am
fashion designer Anthony Cruz Legarda and his Arkiteknik
Collection has also included blue in his Fall 2008
Collection. It will feature the splendor of Philippine
fabrics like piña-seda and piña in one of the fashion
capitals of the world,
New York,
with Philippine indigo and other natural dyes, in
collaboration with PTRI.
The blue
from indigo has high-colorfastness ratings on piña,
piña-silk, abaca, Philippine silk and cotton, to name a
few. Later, conquering Europe is inevitable since the
quality of Philippine indigo is on a par with, if not
better than, that from Japan, Korea and India among many
countries with indigo traditions.
PTRI’s
relentless research and development efforts in reviving
natural dyes in a more scientific approach stirred the
interest of local hand weavers, high-end enterprises and
fashion designers which opened doors, showcasing and
revealing the majestic and wide ranges of blue color
from Philippine indigo and rightfully become the
crowning glory of the country’s natural dyes. It is
hoped that this would catalyze the emergence and
spectral rise of the natural dye industry in the
Philippines.
(Julius L. Leaño/PTRI) |