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    AGAINST an impending tempest in the middle of Sulu Sea—the Ranger Station in Tubbataha National Marine Park. --PHOTOS BY JUERGEN FREUND

     
    Tubbataha dreaming

    Seabird sanctuary, turtle nesting ground, divers’ dream destination—it takes the law to keep this place wild.

     
    By Lu-Ann G. Fuentes
    Special to BusinessMirror
     

    My initiation to Tubbataha Reefs Natural Park started with a back-roll, one day in May, into Jessie Beazley Reef. The first sharks of the trip were close enough to make out the white on their tips. Grey reef sharks were on active patrol, too, and we spotted no less than three pregnant sharks, bulging at their sides.

    Next day, over at North Tubbataha, Shark Airport lived up to its name. By now, giant Napoleon wrasses and circling jacks were a more interesting sight than staple sharks. Six-foot teeth-baring tunas startled me more than the dozing eight-foot nurse shark. A breathtaking tower of circling chevron barracudas (at mere arm’s length at one point) capped the last dive before twilight. Two hours later, my night dive was blessed with eight turtles.

    This is the Tubbataha I know—its horizon viewed from a boat deck, depths peered through a dive mask. It’s a wild place that I dream of returning to.

    But Tubbataha is much more than that.

    For park manager Angelique M. Songco, it’s all of 96,828 hectares (10,000 of which are coral reefs)—and every bit of it needs guarding. Apart from Jessie Beazley Reef and the surrounding waters, there’s also the uninhabited South Atoll and North Atoll. Tubbataha is a no-take Marine Protected Area (MPA) located in the middle of the Cagayan Ridge in the Sulu Sea. And it falls under the political jurisdiction of the municipality of Cagayancillo, which lies 60 nautical miles to the northeast.

    WELCOME to an underwater world of wonder

     

    My Tubbataha in May had calm seas and clear skies; Songco’s is exposed to both northeast and southwest monsoons most months of the year. She has the bigger picture: Tubbataha hosts 379 coral species (almost 90 percent of all coral species in the Philippines), 481 fish species, seven species of resident breeding seabirds, 10 cetacean species, 79 algae species, seven seagrass species, and eight shark species. And its value to conservation and the Philippine economy lies in its strategic role as a source of fish and coral larvae, serving to enrich fisheries in surrounding areas.

    Conservation International-Philippines (CI-Philippines) country director Romeo B. Trono has his own take on Tubbataha. For him, it’s part of a priority marine biodiversity corridor—the Cagayan Ridge—which, in turn, is part of an even bigger Sulu-Sulawesi Seascape (SSS) Project, which also covers Verde Passage, Balabac Strait, and the “Trinational Sea Turtle Corridor” of Turtle Islands, Sabah and East Kalimantan. 

    “This park is the only purely marine Unesco World Heritage Site in Southeast Asia,” Trono reminded. “Its inclusion on the Ramsar List of Wetlands of International Importance demonstrates its global role in the conservation of congregating seabird species. And the islets on the two large atolls where seabirds feed and breed are the nesting grounds of sea turtles, too.”

     

    Cost of protection

    Songco pointed out that Tubbataha’s isolation saved it from fishing pressure in the 1970s, when near-shore fisheries in the Philippines were relatively productive.

    “But by the mid-1980s, fishers from various parts of the country and Asia begun to harvest its marine resources, mostly using destructive means,” she noted. “Tubbataha was declared a national marine park in 1988 yet fishers still entered it—even during bad weather to elude detection and arrest. By 1989, coral cover in Tubbataha had decreased by 52 percent compared to 1982 levels.”

    Today, the sole policymaking body for the park is the 17-member multisectoral Tubbataha Protected Area Management Board (TPAMB). Its executive arm, the Tubbataha Management Office (TMO), is charged with the park’s day-to-day administration.

    Detailed to the reefs all-year-round on three-month rotations are seven marine park rangers—four from the Philippine Navy, one from the Philippine Coast Guard, and two from the TMO. They are housed at the ranger station, located in a sand bar at the North Atoll.

    According to Songco, through the help of various supporting agencies, they now have a radar, two patrol boats and a dinghy, radios, GPS, binoculars, bullhorns, spotlights, camera and firearms. “World Wildlife Fund-Philippines donated a patrol boat while CI-Philippines contributed an outboard motor as well as support for bird-banding work,” she cited.

    A park ranger’s Tubbataha is a wild place—in a different sense of the word. He’s an engine-and-electronics troubleshooter, a seaman and scuba diver all rolled into one. Most of all, he’s a law enforcer. Used to fishers claiming to have accidentally entered the park, he boards their boats to verify illegal activity. Poaching cases in 2006 alone tallied at 33.

    The most publicized case was of the Chinese poachers caught red-handed with 800 live fish—including over 200 Napoleon wrasses—inside the park last December.

    “Poachers do not care about sustainable fisheries, conservation efforts, or MPA rules and boundaries,” Trono said. “They care about the demands of the Chinese aphrodisiac market. They care about making money from sea turtles, shark meat, sea cucumbers and giant clams.”

    They care enough to get crafty at it. Trono gave an example: “Illegal fishers who are after topshells [Trochus niloticus], locally known as samong, arrive in the cover of night. They shut off the motor of their outrigger boats just outside park waters. They use paddle boats, with their lights-off, to silently enter the park. They stack the shells in certain areas as they go along. Before sun-up, these are collected and loaded to the motorized boat.”

    Taking samong—considered rare, threatened and endangered under Convention of Internationally Trade Endangered Species—or any other rare or endangered species is punishable by a 12- to 20-year imprisonment or a P120,000 fine, forfeiture of  catch and fishing permit cancellation.

    But these risks are taken anyway because businessmen in Roxas town reportedly buy topshells for between P140 and P160 a kilo to be sold at P400 a kilo in Cebu. Mainly because rangers endure rough weather during stakeouts and stakeholders outside the park report illegal activity, they made some headway since 2006. Early this year, for example, five people were caught carrying 16 boxes of 700 topshells.

    “Considering the park’s law-enforcement budget of P8 million a year against its threefold increase in total area to 96,828, the cost of protection is virtually P83 per hectare per year. That’s obviously not enough,” Songco said.

     

    Back to the basics

    CI-Philippines is a member of the TPAMB. It also engages local stakeholders and collaborators for its SSS Project in the Cagayan Ridge Marine Biodiversity Conservation Corridor.

    “We met with stakeholders—from fishers and fish vendors to teachers and priests—to draw their thoughts on conservation, needs and expectations, and possibilities for project participation,” said William Azucena, CI-Philippines information, education and communication specialist.

    Stakeholders reported deployed MPA markers that had been destroyed, the lack of MPA guard outposts, and fisheries law-enforcement teams that needed organizing. They identified areas for collaboration: from the strategic (monitoring and improving local MPAs) to the nitty-gritty (equipping the Bantay Dagat with radios, searchlights, flashlights, raincoats, uniforms and training).

    To contribute to the funds for park management and law enforcement, the SSS Project determined a penalty of P12,000 per square meter of damaged reef. Azucena explained: “Production and restoration cost estimates put the park’s coral reefs’ annual economic value at about P208 to P211 per square meter.” The TPAMB has since adopted this environmental-crimes fine.

    Azucena added: “We drill down to the basics for our basis. MPA networks and corresponding management systems are designed based on what we know about spawning fish stocks within this corridor and their dispersal to others. Test fishing [that monitor catch and by-catch], meanwhile, helps assess the pressures to develop the right policies.”

                   

    Big network for a big project

    The inhabited islands along the Cagayan Ridge Corridor are Cawili, Arena, Calusa and Cagayancillo. “In Cagayancillo, 6,000 residents gave up their homes in line with the national decision to declare Tubbataha Reefs a no-take zone,” Azucena noted, as tourism, research and conservation are the only activities allowed within the park. “Their attempt to understand why and what for makes them conservation heroes. The challenge for us is to address the question, ‘What’s in it for them?’”

    Delivering on conservation outcomes, after all, is about maximizing partnerships. For Cagayan Ridge, CI-Philippines joined hands not only with the TMO, TPAMB and Cagayancillo’s stakeholders and local government unit but also with the UP Marine Science Institute and Ocean Bio Laboratory, Tropical Marine Research for Conservation, and the Pawikan Conservation Project of the Protected Areas and Wildlife Bureau.

    A big project needs an even bigger community. “We’re inviting oil and gas corporations, as part of their corporate social responsibility programs, to participate in the development of a conservation strategy for the Cagayan Ridge Marine Biodiversity Conservation Corridor. Together, we can demonstrate sustainable management of protected areas adjacent to exploration areas,” Trono reported.

    CI has already partnered with oil and gas companies—like BP, Chevron, Shell and Statoil—before.

    In Venezuela, CI’s partnership activities included a marine biodiversity survey of habitats near ConocoPhillips’ concession area as well as a threats-and-opportunities assessment in the region, used to develop part of ConocoPhillips’ Environmental Impact Assessment.

    CI’s Southampton-based Serpent project had been supported by oil and gas facilities to pursue deep-sea species surveys and research. A number of companies supported research on whale migration. These types of research help prioritize the deeper seascape areas for conservation activities even as they address companies’ environmental risk needs and provide a relatively simple and cost-effective outreach mechanism.

    Here at home, First Gen provided over $150,000 to support the development and implementation of a conservation plan for Verde Island.

    Dive operators and tourists play their part, too.

    The third day found us at Black Rock, South Tubbataha, where I watched a marble ray gliding deeper, an octopus changing colors and textures as it moved, a wrass cleaning the cheek of a green moray, and a sea snake undulating across the sandy bottom.

    The last four dives on Day Four at Delsan Wreck were devoted to searching for a manta. It showed itself on the very last dive—sealing it, in my mind, as an official Tubbataha trip.

    But one other distinctive thing happened, too: Our dive operator reported the presence of a suspicious-looking vessel. As I watched the rangers’ patrol boat approach, I felt part of the big scheme to protect what we love.

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