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    Downtown

    If there is a country where you are made to feel a person from outside, it is Japan, or Japan is one of them. Gaijin, the person from outside. That’s what we are. We are from outside and we shall never belong to this place. This is the opposite of the Philippines. Even as the outsider may never really feel as truly belonging to the Filipino universe, he will realize—much to his discomfort—that the Filipino wants him to belong.

     

    THEY call this place “Shitamachi”, or downtown. Cinema as they know it in the Western world was introduced in this area. The night we walked the street, we saw streetlights with the faces of the stars of the Japanese movie industry in the ’20s and ’30s. This is a sad place. You recall the good times for the Japanese before the A-bomb was dropped on the two cities of Hiroshima and Nagasaki, before the World War ruined the images of Japan before the world. Soon after that war, the world, by way of the US, initiated the reformatting of the country and its culture. Cultures, however, are never reformatted. They are much too strong for overnight radical changes.

    In Japan, downtown is not merely a geographical point. It is a normative position that comments on how the people in this land believe that things are good when segregated, perfect when boundaries are clear and maintained. When tourists come to this downtown, the locals wonder what attracted them to this territory. Are the tourists interested in finding the downside of the nation? Are the tourists eager to get to know the inside of this country, the innards of Japan?

    Still, Asakusa, for that is the name of the place, is really a tourist’s town. By that term, safe, the place is not a dangerous site. The danger—if there is such a term for Japan—is really more metaphorical. And ideological. There is the danger of being outside and being called the outsider. If there is a country where you are made to feel a person from outside, it is Japan, or Japan is one of them. Gaijin, the person from outside. That’s what we are. We are from outside and we shall never belong to this place.

    This is the opposite of the Philippines. Even as the outsider may never really feel as truly belonging to the Filipino universe, he will realize—much to his discomfort—that the Filipino wants him to belong.

    At this moment, it is good to be an outsider. In this inn, with the students, backpackers are talking about moving or traveling to other countries. With our budget and in our reality, the trip to expensive Japan is already good in itself. Our mission to learn from others can end here. Other people, however, are talking about traveling to Spain from Tokyo. That seems like a long haul for me. And a wider, if not impossible, budget.
    I read notes from other people and I feel like an outsider. Like how some critics are raving about the latest film from Will Fredo. The film carries the title Ang Pagdapo ng Mariposa. This was the film that saw its poster being questioned by the MTRCB. It is out now, the film, and film readers articulate how the filmmaking of Will Fredo is odd. Nice odd. Elegant odd. Dark odd.

    I should watch this film. His Compound left me dazed and later initiated to a different kind of storytelling. Will Fredo is a devil-may-care kind of director. He seems not to respond to the median perspective. His views of life carry us always back to that which we do not want explored: the dark, gooey side of humanity. If there is hope in his narrative, it is always in his ability to exorcise the evil or the weak in his characters. His exorcism comes in the form of the verbalization or the audiovisualization of those things we otherwise would want to stay hidden, in our own shadowed psychology.

    Now there is this film of Will Fredo and people are saying his ending is marvelous. Surprising. A twist.

    The twist in his endings are a marvel not because they pull things out from under you but, rather, because the elements for those endings have been there right at the start. In Compound, it is in that room and the door with voices. It is in the room of that house. In the minds of the people in the compound. In the compounds in the compound.

    The director plays tricks with his tales but his camera conjures magic. Let’s see if the potency found in his Compound will be there again in this film. As of now, the film readers are talking about the love/lust between the athlete and his caregiver.

    As far as I know, this film was threatening to carry the sedate title Caregiver. At present, a different film has that title. Sharon Cuneta is the star of that film.

    Now, I cannot imagine Will Fredo’s version of caregiving. In the mainstream world of Sharon Cuneta, we can imagine a story hinged on the realities of a caregiver somewhere outside the Philippines. In Will Fredo’s mystic field of the super-real, I wonder how caregiving will be told.

    Perhaps, it is best that he decided not to go into that story. Or, perhaps, now we have missed the subtext of caregiving because a director with a tongue-in-brain perspective decided to let go of that title.

    Letting go of history is a theme that is always Japanese. A few days back, the ban on students going on a field trip to the Yasukuni Shrine, the ultimate shrine for the War Dead in Japan, was lifted. The interpretation of the ruling set off a debate, with one parliamentarian announcing that now students can go there for their study tours. Another parliamentarian was on the other side, saying that with the lifting of the ban, it does not follow that all students have to be pushed to go there.

    This debate will rage on, with the complementary issues of apologies for the cruelties the soldiers of the Japanese Imperial Army wrought upon the Filipinos and the other Asian victims during the last World War.

    There is, however, a history we cannot let go here in Tokyo, the unwritten history of the first Filipino entertainers who sallied on to conquer the entertainment world of the Japanese. Dolphy was here. Bimbo Danao is still being talked about by the old-timers. Annie Brazil wowed them in Shibuya.

    Now, I walk around the streets of Tokyo and its suburbs and the Japayuki is no more. There are remnants all over the town, like a club named “Aliw.” And old Japanese men eyeing the young female students with me. This thing will never go away.

    For all our concern about how the world looks at us, there is no mention of the Philippines in the Japanese papers, the English broadsheets. Japan Times, The Mainichi Shimbun, The Daily Yomiuri. There was one about how Japan was planning to donate tons of rice to the Philippines but their hands are tied given the rules of free trade. These economic and trade complexities will never go, too.

    I love the Japanese newspapers in English. They are real newspapers. When I open them, I am reminded of our BusinessMirror, a real broadsheet. I just have one problem: in trains there are etiquettes to be observed, like not using much your cell phone or putting them on a silent mode, and not spreading wide open the newspaper you are reading because you may inconvenience the person beside you. These etiquettes shall never go away, too. And that is good.

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