Anyone will tell you that the Dencio’s chain has certainly become an authority in the Filipino food scene, being popular with both families dining out and the young market on a night out with friends.

Starting out on Katipunan Street, Dencio’s has evolved into a prolific restaurant chain with a total of 25 branches, mostly in Manila, while the rest in distant locations such as Subic and Baguio.

Despite its success, Dencio’s has shown no interest in resting on its laurels and is launching an entirely new restaurant concept. Enter Kabisera ng Dencio’s, kabisera being the native word for the best seat in the table. Formally opened on April 8 in Bonifacio High Street, this restaurant also represents Dencio’s first foray into the high-end restaurant industry.

While Kabisera carries the Dencio’s name, it would appear as no more than embellishment as Kabisera is decidedly an upgrade. This is evident as soon as one enters the restaurant and the eyes are drawn to the floor-to-ceiling windows, to the exotic spherical lamps hanging from the ceiling, and, finally, to the imposing wooden mural carpeting the wall along the stairs. The décor can only be described as modern Filipino, making liberal use of earthy colors and rattan furniture. Suddenly, the ears sense the rhythmic tunes of David Benoit and one is finally convinced that Kabisera is one relation of Dencio’s that has truly left the barrio. 

New Takes on Classic Recipes

IN planning the new menu, Editha Singian, one of the chef contributors, said the main focus was the use of the freshest ingredients to bring out the best flavors. The restaurant will retain some of Dencio’s mainstays but these have also been tweaked for better quality and taste.

A notable dish would be the Rodrigo’s Roast, or pork roulades cooked adobo-style. The meat itself has the texture of butter as the pieces truly melt in your mouth, and this is immediately followed by a slight tickling of the sauce exhibiting the truest qualities of umami.  Another dish would be the Prawns Dino. An interesting take on prawns as the sauce is made with salted egg. It’s a very unique play on textures with the tender prawns combined with the salty creamy consistency of the eggs, making this an interesting take on classic Filipino flavors. Other “must-try” dishes are the laing (this one is really special) and the ukoy, crispy and surprisingly light.

Another feature of Kabisera would be its impressive dessert menu. Many Filipino restaurants, lamented Singian, often ignore the importance of good Filipino desserts, which is why they’ve tried to address this oversight at Kabisera.

Their Sin-turon truly deserves its namesake as one bite does encourage a certain amount of greediness. Imagine turon but in the form of little round packets resembling presents and, yes, after a bite you’d think Christmas had come early.  

There’s also Editha’s Way, a beautiful and unique take on the brazo de Mercedes. A dollop of meringue sits atop velvety custard spread over a creamy cheesecake—need I say anymore?

For something more traditional, there’s the Ube Inipit and local hot chocolate, both excellent ways to end a meal.

Premium Dining Destination

Naturally higher-quality ingredients will translate to a higher price tag.

According to Germin Espino, managing director of Dencio’s and Teriyaki Boy, the people who will dine in Kabisera will not necessarily be the same people who dine in Dencio’s because of the higher prices.

“If in Dencio’s clients expect to pay about P250 per head, Kabisera would charge about P500 per head,” he said. 

Of course, such an increase still has to be justified and Kabisera does so with an impressive array of chefs—Editha Singian, Dino Datu and Nancy Lumen in close collaboration with Vicky Alejandrino of the Pancake house—all lending their expertise. The serving sizes and plating are also markedly improved.

The Kabisera also features other amenities, such as an enclosed bar area and function rooms, which should make the restaurant on the list of possible venues for events or business meetings.

For those who find Bonifacio High Street too much of a drive, Germin, Espino hinted at other branches to be opened in the future, possibly in the Greenhills, Greenbelt and Rockwell areas. Don’t expect them to open anytime soon, though, as the management is being very careful—read: choosy—with the locations, as Kabisera is a premium brand and they intend to keep it that way.

URDUJA LiveS and Sings!

A TOTAL of 85,000 drawings in almost 2,000 scenes that represent 8,771 feet of film, and 400 Filipino artists in digital and traditional animation in studios that spanned from Makati to Palawan, were needed to resurrect from the mist of myth and the crags of history the story of Urduja, the warrior princess of Pangasinan of yore.

Never fade away

ON June 12, 2005, the founder of Pinoy Rock, the band Juan de la Cruz (JDC), staged the Pagkalas concert at the World Trade Center in Pasay City. It coincided with the nationwide celebration of Independence Day.

Gab Fab: Sorry, Regine, Bea is Betty

Finally, we know who Betty La Fea is...and it’s none other than Bea Alonzo.

Playing ugly-duckling roles isn’t new to Bea, as her breakthrough role was one such in Kay Tagal Kang Hinintay, where she was first paired with John Lloyd Cruz.

Shaken&Stirred: Luxurious upgrades

OH dear, pretty much little has changed around these parts since we were last here—well, sweetie, at least as far as the Australian Brian Gorrel’s efforts to reclaim the life savings he insists was filched by DJ Montano,

Fermantations: WHEN A LEGEND CAME TO TOWN

THE menu he planned in his head, during his flight back to Manila from Spain. Because Juan Carlos de Terry knew he was arriving on a Saturday, too close for comfort for the Thursday dinner he was hosting—and cooking—at his now famous restaurant, Segundo Piso.

Cooks: Neptune’s Catch is Gold

ONE of the best choice fish in a culinary competition is seabass, a thick, fat slice of it. This fish is so fat that it’s almost impossible to overcook it and it is naturally delicate in flavor, with a good dose of umami interlaced into its briney juices.

Dencio’s goes high-end

Anyone will tell you that the Dencio’s chain has certainly become an authority in the Filipino food scene, being popular with both families dining out and the young market on a night out with friends.

A Heart for Furry Friends

THESE days, animals have become more than just pets and constant companions. We see socialites and wannabe stars parading their dogs and cats, stuffed in designer handbags, complete with custom-made outfits and bejeweled collars.

Teaching moms to be ‘baby-ready’      

WHEN a young girl experiences her first menstruation, the only person whom she can count on to see her through that turning point in her life is her mom. Knowing that mom is always there to provide her with guidance on personal hygiene, the birds and the bees, as well as what to expect as she matures, gives her reassurance and confidence as she approaches adulthood.

Something Like Life: Looking for love on the World Wide Web

WHEN I interviewed them, I was almost half-annoyed as they absentmindedly gazed into each other’s eyes, held hands and gave each other affectionate pats. They playfully bantered and laughed at each other’s funny—and not-so-funny—remarks. “Inggit ka lang!” the voice in my head jeered. And I couldn’t help but chuckle myself.