BANGKOK in Thailand, one of my favorite Asian destinations, is famous for its traditional Thai massage, the entertainment district of Patpong, its massive traffic jams (5.5 million registered vehicles), variety of shopping experiences (from street markets, malls and the gradually disappearing water markets), its elaborate network of canals known as khlongs (Bangkok is called the “Venice of the East”), plus its ceremonial name (Krung Thep Mahanakhon Amon Rattanakosin Mahinthara Yuthaya Mahadilok Phop Noppharat Ratchathani Burirom Udomratchaniwet Mahasathan Amon Piman Awatan Sathit Sakkathattiya Witsanukam Prasit), the world’s longest. It is also known for its wealth of cultural sites, making it one of the world’s most popular tourist destinations. Its temples (wats) and palaces are a must-see for any tourist and, during my four-day visit to Thailand, were part of my half-day city tour (which, like any other tour, included the usual jewelry-store visit). Two of these are superlatively Guinness Book of World Records-worthy.

Our first stopover was the relatively plain-looking Wat Traimit. However, inside it houses a most valued treasure of Thailand and of Buddhism: the 5.5-ton Golden Buddha, the largest solid gold Buddha image in the world. About 10 feet high and 12 feet 9 inches in diameter, it was originally placed in an Ayutthaya temple and was camouflage from Burmese invaders by being given a thick plaster coating. Subsequently “lost,” the encased statue was later moved to Choti-naram Temple (or Wat Phrayakrai) in Bangkok during the reign of King Rama III (1824-51). When the temple was deserted around 1931, the plaster-covered Buddha was moved to Wat Traimit in the mid-1950s. As it was being transferred, the rain-soaked figure was accidentally dropped, cracking the stucco to reveal the figure inside.

Our next stop was the 80,000-sq-m Wat Pho (officially called Wat Phra Chetuphon Vimolmangklararm Rajwaramahaviharn) in the Phra Nakhon District, the largest and, technically, the oldest wat in Bangkok. Thailand’s first university, it is the birthplace of traditional Thai massage (stone walls have plaques inscribed with medical texts on Thai massage, dating from the reign of King Rama III). The complex consists of two walled compounds bisected by Soi (Thai for “street”) Chetuphon, which runs east to west. The southern walled compound, the Tukgawee, is a working Buddhist monastery, with monks in residence and a school.  The northern walled compound, the one opened to us tourists, includes a large bot (temple hall) enclosed by 394 bronze Buddha images. Outside are 152 marble slabs depicting the second half of the epic Ramakian story. Also near here are four chedis, constructed to honor the first three Chakri kings (two for King Rama III). Around the grounds are another 91 massive chedis, of varying sizes, along with chapels, rock gardens, an array of different types of statues, inscriptions, bell towers and resident fortune tellers. Nearby is a library, impressively decorated with figures, and pagodas made of porcelain.

The temple is known, however, for its Reclining Buddha (Phra Buddhasaiyas), one of more than 1,000 Buddha images (the most in the country, mostly gathered from the ruins of the former capitals Ayuthaya and Sukhothai) in the temple. This highly impressive, gold-plated Buddha, the world’s longest, is really huge, measuring 46 meters long, 15 meters high, and is designed to illustrate the passing of the Buddha into nirvana. The soles of the feet and the eyes are engraved with mother-of-pearl decoration. The feet also show the 108 auspicious scenes in Chinese and Indian styles, all characteristics of the true Buddha.

I still hadn’t had my fill of Thai temples and palaces, so on my fourth day, with my whole morning free prior to my evening return to Manila, I decided to take a tuk-tuk (Thai equivalent of our tricycle) to the fabulous Grand Palace (Phra Borom Maha Ratcha Wang), along the Na Phra Lan Road, and its adjoining Wat Phra Kaew. Walking distance from Wat Pho and sitting on the east bank of the Chao Phraya River, this complex of buildings is the gem of Bangkok’s impressive collection of temples and palaces. Despite their proximity, both have a distinct contrast in style (the roof being the exception). The interiors of most of the buildings remain closed to the public. The very Thai Wat Phra Kaew (Chapel Royal of the Emerald Buddha), Thailand’s most important temple, houses the small (45 cm tall), beautiful, gold-clothed and greatly revered Emerald Buddha, carved from a block of green jade (instead of emerald) and said to have been created in India in 43 B.C.  Its grounds are enclosed by galleries, the murals of which depict the story of the Ramakien of the first reign version.

My Grand Palace tour should have included Vimanmek Mansion along Rajavithee Road, also a former royal residence. The biggest wooden building made from golden teak in the world, it was built by King Chulalongkorn (of The King and I fame). Regrettably, I had to forgo this visit as it was time to go and pack for home.

God willing, there would be a next time.

Buddhas, ‘wats’ and four days in Bangkok

BANGKOK in Thailand, one of my favorite Asian destinations, is famous for its traditional Thai massage, the entertainment district of Patpong, its massive traffic jams (5.5 million registered vehicles),

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