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    Graphic by Joseph John Mauricio

     
     

    MY potted bougainvilleas are still languishing in the condominium building’s gardens, waiting to be brought back up to my terrace. I’ve since unpacked my suitcases, but I still have to settle back into my routine, distracted by the memories that persist in lingering, like the heat that follows me around like a throbbing headache. I have just returned from a four-week trip to Atlanta, and the sights and smells and tastes are still fresh in my head.

    Atlanta basks in the glow of the famous enterprises it is home to, ranking third behind New York and Houston in the number of Fortune 500 companies headquartered within its boundaries. The Coca-Cola Co., Home Depot and United Parcel Service (UPS) are here. So are AT&T Mobility, the largest mobile-service provider in the US, and Newell Rubbermaid, set to move its headquarters soon to Sandy Springs just outside the city, near UPS.  The city’s highrises are clustered in Buckhead, Downtown and Midtown—and still the construction proceeds at boom levels with over 60 new high-rise or mid-rise buildings under construction or proposed as of April 2006.

    Despite the rush of development, Atlanta is known as a “city of trees,” as woodlands begin just on the fringes of the business districts, the canopy of trees growing denser as it fans out into the suburbs. In Sandy Springs, for example, the “city in a forest” theme is much in effect. Here, the headquarters of UPS lie nestled in a pocket of green, the buildings gleaming above a skirting of flowering trees. And just beyond, past the posh neighborhood lined with still more trees lies Rumi’s Kitchen on busy Roswell Street. Yes, Atlanta’s suburbs have their own cache of culinary treasures and it was the “locals” who led me to them. My brother and sister-in-law, lontime Alpharetta residents and both avowed foodies (with excellent noses for sniffing out the duds from the truly delicious), led me from one eating and drinking adventure to the other—from the storied holes-in-the wall, comfort food places and trendy restaurants to the wine selections and fresh produce at the specialty shops and supermarkets.

    There is Jason’s, the neighborhood deli dishing out their bestselling, hefty corned beef sandwiches amid a setting of formica-topped tables, red banquettes—and black-and-white framed photographs of Paris. At Satay House, Frido, the Indonesian maitre d’, knew by heart what my brother and sister-in-law would regularly order: roti prata, beef rendang and catfish curry, all seasoned and spiced with a fine hand. The popular chain restaurants had their own offerings—cheesecakes at the Cheesecake Factory, spicy buttermilk fried chicken at Popeye’s, thin-crust pizza at Ledo’s, pho and the ethereal breaded shrimp at Phoenix Noodle House, the Cajun/Louisiana buffet at Papadeaux, and the outstanding Angus double cheeseburger at Hardees. We joined the queue of the after-church crowd on Easter Sunday at the celebrated Flying Biscuit Café (rated by Zagats, Bon Appétit, Good-Morning America and Rachel Ray, among others) for its all-day breakfasts that come with its centerpiece and namesake—the enormous, fluffy, sugar-sprinkled biscuit that “fly” out the door because of their incredible goodness. And then there is Rumi’s Kitchen. Named after Jelaluddin Rumi, a poet of the ancient Persian empire, the restaurant offers the traditional cuisine of the Middle East in surroundings that echo the exoticism of its origins. Wrought iron and wood. Hanging lamps and flickering candles. Fresh roses and stone fountains. Specialties here include dolmeh, grapevine leaves stuffed with minced ground beef, rice and herbs; mast khiyar, diced cucumbers, yogurt, raisins, walnuts and fresh herbs; charbroiled kabob; slow-cooked lamb shank, falling off the bone into the Basmati rice studded with fava beans; and a traditional Persian flatbread baked fresh in a woodstone oven, akin to the tanoor, the old-fashioned oven of Iran.

    I remember ending that meal with delicate rose-petal tea sweetened with saffron-sugar. And another meal with a 2005 trockenbeerenauslese made from Ortega, a crossing of Müller-Thurgau and Siegerrebe. Still there is the memory of the Batasiolo 2001 Barolo and the 1999 Oremus Tokaji Aszú—too precious to end up in the spittoon, so I drank them up, despite the wine instructor’s admonition to spit because the class had just begun.  

    The faint wine stains on a favorite shirt are all that remain of this recent adventure. All too soon, they will be wiped out after a trip to the cleaner’s. But the memories will remain, hoarded like precious rainwater in the reservoir of the heart. It is true...memories are mostly made of tastes and smells.

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