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ON the
long, elevated Skyway-like road from the airport to the
city proper of Hanoi, those narrow, tall houses can’t
escape first-timers. They all have about three to four
floors, with a veranda in each level. The roof is
covered with European red tiles, or what we call tisa in
our ancestral Hispanic houses. v The veranda, roofs,
walls and windows use trapezoidal, zigzagged, geometric
and jumbled shapes, using stainless steel, lacquer,
inlaid wood and some aluminum.
At the
city proper, this type of architectural uprightness
greeted us and proliferated even in the central business
district, surrounding the tall commercial buildings and
some French colonial edifices. It seems building a
bungalow or a two-story house is like committing a grave
architectural mortal sin, given the facts that we would
get into later.
A quick
check on history would tell us that Vietnam was
colonized by the French from 1887 to 1945. This explains
why most designs evoke European influences, mainly from
the Art Deco period, the “in thing” in architecture and
design from 1925 to 1939. Deco is for decorative,
infusing influences like cubism, futurism,
neoimpressionism and all the “isms” that originated in
the early part of the 20th century.

A VIEW(clock wise) from my
hotel window, ONLY rich Hanoians can own a tube house in
the middle of a farm. RECREATING Venice—These seemingly
floating edifices are part of Intercontinental Westlake
Hanoi. THIS recreational fisherman owns the house behind
him.
The
French experience is also felt at the Intercontinental
Westlake Hotel in Hanoi, where we were billeted for the
launch of Nokia’s new four entry-level phones for the
emerging market like Vietnam. Instead of having the
usual high-rise, about 80 percent of the hotel’s rooms
are spread on four-story edifices built and spread like
floating structures on one side of the lake. It’s like
recreating a portion of Venice.
In the
three mornings I woke up earlier than usual, from the
veranda of my room, I saw residents fishing right in
front of their tube houses.
And I
swear I didn’t notice a series of condominium buildings
along the busiest streets.
I can’t
help but compare the tall condo buildings rising left
and right in Mega Manila’s major cities. Every day, we
are awash in a flood of marketing campaigns exhorting us
to pack our bags from the suburbs or our rickety
two-floor apartment in Sampaloc to live the condo life.
The Hanoians managed to preserve their heritage by
sticking to the design that mirrors their history and
culture.
Armed
with a Nokia N82, which is equipped with easy photo and
video-capture features, I was able to record a few
architectural landmarks and some unique tube houses in
Hanoi.
I
learned later on that those tall and narrow residential
structures exist because in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh, land
is like gold. Our tour guide Phuk informed us that a
square meter of prime land in the central
Hanoi business district would cost as much as $15,000. If we’re
going to go by Phuk’s assertion, that’s around P600,000
per square meter. Imagine, the price of a
54-square-meter, two-bedroom condo unit in Mandaluyong
or
Pasay City would only
afford us about 5 to 6 sq m of land in
Hanoi.
But Phuk
could be exaggerating. In
Ho Chi Minh City
a prime lot in suburban residential areas would cost
around $6,000 per sq m, based on the article “A New Side
of Saigon” in the Vietnamese Airlines inflight magazine
Heritage, March-April issue.
The
existence of tube houses is also justified by the way
Hanoian landowners are taxed, which is based on the
width of their house’s façade. Therefore, people buy
houses with narrow frontages to minimize tax burden.
Our
quick online research also brought us to the report
paper titled “Vietnam Real Estate Market: Policies for
Demand Stimulation,” posted on www.mof.gov.vn, the
official web site of the Socialist Republic of Vietnam’s
Ministry of Finance.
It was
reported that for the first quarter of 2008, land price
in Hanoi’s urban districts has risen from Vietnamese
Dong 54 million ($3,375) per sq m to VND67.5 million
($4,218) per sq m at maximum level, and VND1.5
million/sq m at minimum level.
Why the
heart attack-inducing price? I an earlier report titled
“The Fundamental of Real Estate Price,” it was cited how
the migration of Vietnamese from the rural areas and the
influx of foreign investors to cities like Hanoi
resulted in a big demand for luxury-office buildings
and, naturally, land prices. According to the
Socioeconomic Development Research Institute of Vietnam,
Hanoi will need about 100,000 apartments by 2010.
With
this development, we can only hope that the tube houses
will not vanish one by one, like bowling pins being
toppled by the speeding balls of progress. At least, I
captured them in pictures.
We can’t
help but end this article with the sorry thought that if
Hanoi has tube or tubular houses that they can be proud
of, we only have “tubercular houses,” as best
exemplified by the row of shanties greeting foreigners
from the international airport. And no amount of makeup
like the Metro Gwapo can remedy such prevalence. |