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    WELCOME TO WONDERLAND Cottages inspired by Mindanao’s tribal culture line the shore of Pearl Farm’s Samal Island.

    Text and photos
    by Sunly Coo
     

    IT’S been awhile since she debuted to a captivated society, when every major newspaper and glossy magazine lavished her with accolades. It’s been more than a decade since she made it to the coveted pages of Condé Nast’s Architectural Digest and Travel+Leisure, yet Pearl Farm still retains the luster that first drew seasoned travelers from around the world. The 14-hectare “masterwork of island architecture,” where thousands of oysters were once cultivated for their precious gems, has built her reputation on years of consistent service and dedicated management. As the jewel in the crown of Davao’s tourism industry, Pearl Farm has proven herself to be more than a worthy ambassador.

    Before visitors set foot on her shores on Samal Island, they are welcomed by the festive sight of colorful flags whipping in the wind, a row of cottages flanked by stately coconut trees, and a towering backdrop of lush vegetation. The 45-minute ride on a motorized boat from the Pearl Farm Marina in Langan becomes a distant memory, as the air pulses with the rhythmic thump of tribal drums, while a smiling staff serves up sweating glasses of cold fruit drinks. Just like that, urban inhibitions are shed, and guests are eager to dive into the island lifestyle.

    For many, it means diving head-first into the surrounding blue waters that has been declared a marine sanctuary. It’s home to a host of strange and beautiful creatures, from groupers to moray eels, yellow-finned sardines, sea turtles, eagle rays, and a 4-km coral reef. You don’t have to venture far or put on your snorkeling gear to get up close and personal with some aquatic life. Schools of fishes patrol the docking area, where starfishes abound and the water reaches no higher than your waist. For a shot of adrenaline, thrill-seekers can take their pick from a selection of watersports that include windsurfing, water polo, kayaking, wakeboarding, waterskiing and banana boat-riding. But for the ultimate adventure, nothing beats an exploration of two sunken World War II vessels, one of them a 132-feet Japanese freighter that a diver once told me was one of the eeriest sites he ever visited. Those who prefer to stay on terra firma could hit the jogging trail that winds through a scenic route, or score a few rounds on the tennis, basketball, or badminton court.

    After a rigorous workout, tired muscles get a good rubdown at the Ylang-Ylang Spa, a rustic, three-open-sided bamboo structure nestling amid thick foliage. The sound of trickling water from the adjacent man-made waterfall mingles with the scents of candles and natural products, like Davao coffee and milk for body scrubs, lemongrass for foot massages, and honey lime for facials. It’s one indulgence you’ll want to experience again before you leave the island.

    Just a  stone’s-throw away from the spa is the Maranao Restaurant, where buffets of sumptuous international dishes and Filipino favorites are laid out for lunch and dinner. The place, which overlooks the infinity pool, also does a fierce steaming cup of bittersweet chocolate, not from a can of sugary malt, but from tablets of honest-to-goodness local cocoa. 

    Retire to any one of the spacious, air-conditioned cottages that are designed with influences from Mindanao’s Samal and Maranao tribal culture. Done in bamboo and wood, some of the houses are perched on the edge of the island, raised on stilts over tranquil waters, or set back from the beach, just steps away from the swimming pool. Starting at P4,550 per person, guests can enjoy an overnight twin-sharing accommodation, full board meals, complimentary use of selected facilities, and roundtrip boat transfers. 

    For those who want their bathtubs, boudoirs and four-poster beds, take a five-minute boat ride from Samal Island to the secluded Malipano Island, where multistory villas offer luxurious creature comforts from a uniquely Filipino perspective. Eminent architect Bobby Mañosa, the genius behind Coconut Palace and other iconic structures across the archipelago, gave the seven octagonal villas their distinctive look with roofs shaped like the salakot, the traditional nipa palm hat. The façades may be similar, but no two villas share the same interiors. Owner Antonio Floirendo Sr., whose fortune is harvested from the country’s largest banana plantation, originally planned the three- or four-bedroom houses as private summer residences for each of his children, who were given free rein to furnish their places. Built with expansive living rooms that command panoramic views of the sea, the villas are now rented out to a minimum of six occupants for a full-range package of P7,300 per night per person. Quite a hefty price. But if you want plenty of space, premium amenities, a private beach in front, and a three-hole golf course in the back, then consider putting Malipano Island down on your next holiday itinerary.

    As the sun sets over the horizon, Pearl Farm is bathed in a soft, dusky glow. The heat of the day dissipates, and the air turns crisp and cool. The sea, a vast calm entity that stretches out from gold-burnished shores, quiets down to sing a soft lullaby. For awhile, everything is right in the world—or at least here on the most radiant pearl of the South Seas.

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