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GET
ready for your close-up. A category of cosmetics hitting
stores now is designed to achieve a flawless-looking
face under the microscope of pore-magnifying, fine
line-focusing, high-definition television.
The
products are popular with
Hollywood makeup artists, and now brands such as Cargo and Christian Dior are
being marketed to the everywoman who wants to look like
a perfectly porcelain-skinned Nicole Kidman, whether
she’s under the harsh fluorescent lights of the office
or in the soft focus of an outdoor patio.
HD
foundations claim to provide full coverage without
feeling or looking too thick. They contain
photochromatic particles that reflect light instead of
absorbing it, blurring fine lines and imperfections,
explains Dr. Jessica Wu, a Los Angeles dermatologist.

FOR HIGH-DEF BEAUTY.
Christian
Dior high-definition serum foundation, Smashbox
high-definition foundation, Cargo Blu-ray
high-definition makeup line
Not
surprisingly, Smashbox Cosmetics was the first company
to enter the high-def category. Owners Dean and Davis
Factor, great-grandsons of film makeup pioneer Max
Factor, have positioned Smashbox as a professional
Hollywood brand that also happens to be commercially
available.
“The
trend in makeup is to have clean, real-looking,
less-made-up skin, so HD techniques and the way we wear
makeup in everyday life go hand in hand,” says Smashbox
Cosmetics makeup artist Lori Taylor.
Celebrity makeup artist Patrick Tumey has been using
Smashbox High-Definition Healthy FX Foundation on Sandra
Oh and Sara Ramirez for on-camera and off-camera
appearances for the past year and describes it as “more
pliable” than non-HD products. “It grabs shadow better
and highlights cheekbones and eye sockets.”
Others
are more skeptical.
“It’s a
clever marketing tool,” says Amy Keller Laird, beauty
director at Allure magazine. “But the concept is not
that new. There are micro-particles and pigments that
adjust to light in any good light-reflecting makeup.”
(Wu notes that mineral makeup has similar
light-reflecting properties.) Makeup artist Nick Barose,
who works with Mischa Barton, Mary-Kate Olsen and Kim
Kardashian, agrees. He swears by a Clarins product that
has an “auto-focus complex” that claims to absorb excess
light and make the skin look flawless in bright sun or
artificial lighting—just like HD foundation.
Still,
he sees the value of the HD label for consumers. It
takes the guesswork out of choosing a product that’s
going to make you look good in any light, he says. “It’s
like a security blanket.”
We
decided to put a few HD products to the test under the
harsh fluorescent light of an office bathroom and the
direct sunlight of a Southern California afternoon.
Christian Dior Capture Totale High-Definition Serum
Foundation
Definitely the most luxurious foundation of the bunch,
it was thicker than expected and a tad oily. The
foundation glided on effortlessly, filling in every nook
and cranny. The finish was soft and a little powdery
with ample coverage.
There
were no scary surprises in fluorescent light, just even
skin tone. But under the high sun, you could see traces
of the makeup, making the effect less natural.
Smashbox
High-Definition Healthy FX Foundation, $38
This
slick-feeling formula has a mushroom-based extract that
gives it a cushiony texture. The sheer formula made this
foundation feel invisible on the skin and made the face
look more luminescent than with the Dior foundation.
The best
performer indoors and out, this foundation soaked easily
into the skin and looked blissfully natural.
Cargo
Blu-ray High-Definition Makeup
Racheting up the lingo to appeal to Blu-ray
technophiles, this line includes a highlighter,
mattifier and pressed powder designed to be used
together, plus mascara and lip gloss. The mattifier was
so drying, it actually created fine lines on the face
and an uncomfortably tight sensation.
Under
fluorescent light, the powder and blush made the skin
look pale and washed out. In sunlight, the effect was
clean and natural, except for the flakiness caused by
the mattifier.
But the
mascara was the real standout. The tiny comb didn’t look
like it would do much, but the effects were incredible.
It defined each eyelash without any clumpiness or
mess—like false eyelashes minus the hassle.
If only
high-def cosmetics had been around for Tammy Faye. |