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Much has
been said and written about the majestic Eighth Wonder of
the World, described also as “stairways to heaven.” But
there is more to appreciate in Ifugao than just the
terraces. Safeguarding the spectacular rice terraces of
the Philippines begins with preserving the culture of
those who created them. The rich cultural beliefs and
practices, as well as the indigenous skills of the Ifugao,
complete the whole picture of the 2,000-year-old rice
terraces.
Reviving
the rice rituals and other cultural beliefs practiced by
our great ancestors is one of the more effective efforts
in preserving the terraces, says Ifugao Gov. Teodoro
Baguilat Jr.
While some
farmers interpret the rapid deterioration of the rice
terraces as a curse, tribal folk perform rituals to
appease the gods. Through chants and the offering of some
chickens, dogs, pigs or ducks, farmers implore the gods to
help them revive the beauty of the mountain terraces.
“It is
important to preserve and restore the beauty of the
terraces as they are not only a source of food, but also a
reminder of our ancestors and their connection to the
land,” asserts Baguilat.
In Ifugao,
many rituals for good rice harvests and other ceremonies
require the leadership of a native high priest called
mumbaki, a group that is becoming rare in Ifugao over
the years because of the onslaught of modernization and
Christianity in Ifugao.
“If the
mumbaki disappear, the Ifugao will lose the primary
carriers of our oral traditions, community laws and other
rich Ifugao heritage,” Baguilat laments.
Losing our
tradition
Mumbaki
are chosen, gifted and blessed by their god called
Maknongan. Only the anointed can perform the tasks of a
mumbaki. They are imbued with the knowledge of the
ancient rituals and teachings, customs and traditions of
the rich Ifugao culture.
“It’s very
hard to become a mumbaki, and younger people here
don’t want to learn any more,” said 54-year-old Joseph
Nakake, the youngest of three remaining mumbaki in
the
municipality of
Hungduan
in Ifugao.
Nakake,
also a councilor in Hungduan, feels sad that despite
having four sons, none of them are prepared to be ordained
as a mumbaki.
Changing
attitudes, especially among the young Ifugaos have had
great implications on the local culture, Nakake said.
“I know
mumbaki will soon vanish. It is our tradition to pass
on to our sons to become the next mumbaki. But
unfortunately, my sons are not interested anymore because
of many factors such as modernization and Christianity,”
laments Nakake, who has been Hungduan’s mumbaki for
more than 12 years now. “I think I will be the last
mumbaki in our tribe.”
Apo Bandao
Atolba, 78, the oldest remaining mumbaki in Ifugao,
recalls that his grandfather told him to preserve and pass
on the oral rituals and history of the mumbakis—and
he did.
“We really
have to instill in the minds of the young generation that
in order to save the crumbling rice terraces, they need to
understand the history of their forefathers,” Apo Atolba,
the ninth-generation mumbaki in his clan, said in
his dialect, the Tuwali.
Mumbaki
like Apo Atolba are usually garbed in a traditional
costume of a bright- red g-string and wide and equally red
native blankets which are draped over their upper bodies.
They have memorized long chants and family genealogy which
they now share to their community.
“I am old
now and I will not be here forever, I still hope the
mumbaki tradition will not vanish when I’m gone,” Apo
Atolba said.
Lack of
care
Already,
sections of the terraces, designated a World Heritage Site
by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural
Organization (Unesco), have worn away, with jagged earth
now showing where green rice stalks once swayed.
Without
regular maintenance, the mud-walled terraces, one of the
world’s few surviving ancient wonders, began crumbling,
setting off a chain reaction of erosion and hardship for
other farmers.
“When
there would be no more rice terraces, it will seem the
face of our ancestors is erased. Now you can see they are
already deteriorating,” said Governor Baguilat who, at his
most pessimistic, believes they could be gone within 15
years.
The World
Heritage Committee of Unesco inscribe in 2001 the Rice
Terraces in the List of World Heritage Sites in Danger due
to its continuous deterioration.
Baguilat
said an exodus of the younger generation into the cities
has resulted in the erosion of local culture as well as
the old traditions.
“The young
people are not interested in tilling the terraces anymore.
They are turning their backs on the hard grind of working
the terraces. The influence of education and religion has
also altered the mindsets of the locals. The current
generation does not have much appreciation for the
heritage value of the rice terraces,” he said.
Some old
farmers, no longer able to work the fields, dress up
instead in tribal costume and perform for tourists in
exchange for a few pesos.
Because
the productivity of the terraces remains low, Baguilat
explains that the profit farmers gain is not even enough
to support them. As a result, they abandon rice farming
and seek other means of livelihood like woodcarving,
weaving handicrafts or even lucrative overseas employment.
An
outbreak of giant worms is also plaguing the terraces.
Olang to locals, these worms that grow as long as 18
inches bore through the terraces, causing them to
collapse. The worm menace worsened in the 1990s when water
for the terraces started to dwindle.
The influx
of tourists has also resulted in increasing demand for
souvenir items, and many locals, including children,
turned to the more profitable trade of woodcarving or
weaving. Not only does Ifugao lose farmers, but also trees
to the carving industry.
As highly
skilled craftsmen, the Ifugao are renowned for effigies of
their gods, lions, eagles, the Ifugao basketwork and also
their crafted spoons, bowls, ritual boxes, gong handles
and even coffins, wooden beds, jewelry boxes and many
more.
But
33-year-old Romeo Bayocca said that since trees are
dwindling in Ifugao, they stopped cutting trees and
concentrated on reforestation efforts, or the muyong
system.
“We used
to carve images as high as 10 feet. But we do not have
enough trees now so we stopped the woodcarving business
and do reforestation together with the community,” Bayocca
said.
Also with
tourism, villagers have been selling their antique
heirlooms such as jars, baskets, beads and religious icons
such as the bulul or rice god. Even traditional
houses are being sold.
Reviving
the culture
One sure
way of reviving the culture and traditions of Ifugao is to
encourage the young people to value their rich heritage,
says Governor Baguilat.
“We have
so many programs in mind to revive our dying heritage. But
we need the support not only of local villagers but also
national and international assistance,” he said.
A mapping
of oral and written indigenous-information resources is
currently being conducted by the Save the Ifugao Terraces
Movement (Sitmo), a nongovernment organization campaigning
for the preservation and rehabilitation of the terraces.
Sitmo aims
to gather rituals and beliefs in the terraces communities
covering eight municipalities in Ifugao, to prepare for
the development of systems of knowledge transfer in the
formal and informal setting.
The
government, through the National Commission for Culture
and the Arts, has also established the School for Living
Traditions in the villages of Ifugao, aiming to preserve
Ifugao culture where traditional arts and crafts like
woodcarving, backstrap weaving, rice-wine brewing, metal
smithing and basket-making are being taught to the younger
generation.
“This is
our heritage. We have to put our acts together to preserve
our culture and, at the same time, save the Cordillera
rice terraces from further deterioration, Baguilat said. |
