AT a recent Champagne dinner, as Moët et Chandon, Veuve Clicquot and Krug flowed until the last course, the talk went around to bubblies poured inflight. Bubbly is indeed a mainstay on most airline wine lists, and with the image of luxury and opulence that it evokes, Champagne is de rigueur on First and Business Class—and sometimes a special treat on Economy. Pampered passengers make loyal customers and, therefore, the goal is to make the flight a most comfortable and delicious experience. Wider seats and full beds do make their point, but one of the surest ways to an airline passenger’s heart is still through his stomach. Why else do airline companies enlist the services of starred chefs and, with the current interest in wine on a high, wine consultants and sommeliers? 

That the inflight dining experience now rivals fine-dining standards is a boon to the traveler, especially one on a long-haul flight. Welcome drinks and liqueurs, caviar and cheese platters, fine chocolates and gourmet coffee, dim sum and tapas, order-ahead meals for those with dietary restrictions—airline passengers have never had it so good. Here is a peek at how good that is.

§          On Air France-KLM’s l’Espace Première, the menu is crafted by Guy Martin, the three-starred chef of the Grand Véfour restaurant in Paris. The wine list is put together by Olivier Poussier, named World’s Best Sommelier in 2000.

§          Cathay Pacific was one of the first airlines to have rice cookers, toasters and skillets onboard, so that passengers can have freshly cooked rice, fried eggs and toast. There are about 40 wines onboard from France, Italy, South Africa, Australia, the US and New Zealand. Examples include Château Branaire Ducru 1998, Climbing Chardonnay 2005 from Orange, New South Wales, Australia, and Vieux Château Landon 2002 from the Médoc (Vieux Château has a limited production every year, most of it served exclusively on Cathay Pacific.)

§          Local Japanese wines now form part of the wine list on Japan Airline’s First Class and Executive Class. Last year the Aruga Branca Clareza 2005 made its debut on the Japan-Europe routes.  The Aruga Branca range, made from the indigenous Koshu grape, are produced by the Aruga family, one of Japan’s oldest winemaking families in the Yamanashi prefecture.

§          Philippine Airlines is a member of the Chaines des Rotisseurs. Filipino staples like arroz caldo find their way on the menu. A panel of wine connoisseurs and a group from within the company choose the wines. Penfolds, Lindemans and Piper Hiedsieck Brut Champagne are on the beverage lists of First and Business Class. Scottish Chef Ian MacKenzie creates the menus and recipes for inflight dining. 

§          Premium Australian wines are, of course, poured onboard Quantas. There is pre-takeoff Champagne; and on International Economy, an individual bottle of wine to accompany the meal.

§          On the Royal First Class of Thai Airways, Dom Perignon or a vintage Champagne is poured as a welcome drink. Premium bar service includes whiskies, brandies, port and liqueurs.

The care that goes into selecting wines for inflight dining is acknowledged in the industry through a prestigious awards program.  Every year, judges gather some of the finest wines offered in Business and First Class long-haul flights for the “Cellars in the Sky” awards. Organized by Business Traveler and Wine and Spirits magazines, wines from some 30 international airlines are judged and given honors across 18 categories that include Best First Class Red Category, Best Business Class Cellar and Most Original Wine List. In 2006, for example, Qatar Airways and Japan Airlines won awards, the latter in the Best First Class Red Category for Château Pichon-Longueville Baron 1998.

But even a well-crafted wine list is just a secondary consideration for most travelers. In a report presented by American Airlines in 2006, price competitiveness and time schedules are still the big factors when it comes to a purchasing decision. The wine list—and menu—notwithstanding, most travelers, especially on Business and First Class, want to be able to lie flat and rest during the flight so they can be productive when they arrive at their destination. But for those who can’t resist the temptations of the wine list, remember the specter of jetlag. Go easy on the alcohol. I know someone who takes the Champagne, plus a red and Port—but in tasting portions.  As in everything else, balance is the key. Something to think about before that second helping of preflight Champagne....

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