YOUR vehicle may arguably well be the single most expensive item you’ll ever buy. Only the purchase of a home will top the number of pesos you’ll spend on an automobile. If you add up the costs of owning, operating, licensing, insuring, maintaining and repairing your vehicle, the total bill may very well exceed even the rent or monthly amortization on your apartment or house.

The way to save money on your vehicle is to be car-smart. Investing a little time and energy—even just once a year—toward understanding what your vehicle needs in terms of care and maintenance never hurt anyone, and will even help your checkbook in the long run.

The following is what you should check on your prized four-wheeler once a year.

PCV valve. If your vehicle comes with a positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve, do check it to make sure it’s clear and not clogged with oil or sludge. Usually mounted on or near the valve cover, just pull out the valve, shake it to make sure it rattles properly, look into the opening to check for sludge, and reinstall it if it’s good. A PCV valve only gets clogged if one doesn’t change oil at timely intervals.

Brake pads. If you hear a light chirping sound as you turn the steering wheel or when you lightly apply the brakes, but the chirp stops if you squeeze the brake pedal harder, it’s time to look at the brake pads.

Tires. Insert a 25-centavo coin into the tread, with the “Republika ng Pilipinas” phrase and the number 25 pointed down and facing you. If you can clearly see the word “ng” or the upper part of the number 25 in the coin, the tire needs to be replaced.

Brake discs. When it’s time for new brake pads, it’s also time for brake-disc inspections for scoring and wear. Deep scoring can occur if you don’t replace the brake pads on time, and the friction material wears off the steel backing plate to the point that the backing plate contacts the rotor. Steel on cast iron generates a nasty grinding sound, and quickly ruins the rotor.

Air filter. To see whether your air filter needs to be replaced, just lift it out and hold it up to the sun or to a strong light. Can you see the light streaming through it? If not, try dropping it lightly, bottom side down, on a hard surface. Doing so should jar some dirt loose. If the filter is still too dirty to see through after you’ve dropped it a few times, you need a new one.

Timing belt. This hidden belt drives the valvetrain of your car, and is not to be confused with the serpentine or V-belt for the water pump and accessories. It’s best to follow the owner’s manual recommendations for timing belt replacement, for ignoring it means serious engine damage.

Accessory drive belt. These come in the v-belt or the multiribbed serpentine version. Basic rule: if it has no more than three cracks per inch and none run from edge to edge, the belt is still good.

Auxiliary fan. A seized auxiliary fan is one major probable cause of overheating. If it doesn’t run, have its clutch (called a fan clutch) replaced immediately.

Shock absorbers. A failed “shock” is easy to identify. Hydraulic oil leaking from the unit, coupled with clunking noises and a significant decrease in ride quality are hints.

An easier test is to push down on the hood or trunk area as hard and as far as you can, then let go. The car should come to rest after one bounce. If not, the shocks need replacing.  

Automatic transmission fluid. With the engine idling and the transmission in “Park,” remove the automatic transmission (A/T) dipstick and wipe it with a clean cloth. Then reinsert it and pull it out again. A low level may indicate a transmission leak.

It helps to drip the fluid on a white paper to be able to see fluid condition. The fluid on the paper should be clean and transparent, without any metal filings or black flakes. New fluid usually comes red. Over time and use it becomes more brownish, but it shouldn’t be black.

Special thanks to PowerLug Car Wash and Auto Repair, 4-B Gold corner Silver Streets, Millionaires Village, Novaliches, Quezon City (Telephone: 496-1498).

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