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AT least
three times a year, I receive a letter of invitation the
last line of which reads: “As we shall be serving only
humble wines, please feel free in bringing a bottle
you’d like to share at the table.” Chef Gene Gonzalez
initiated the bring-your-own-bottle ritual eight years
ago, when the Center for Asian Culinary Studies began
its “repertoire” dinners marking the culmination of the
yearlong professional culinary class.
As a
requirement for graduation, the students craft an
original full-course menu—and prepare it for a panel
consisting of the school’s faculty, strategic partners
and, more often than not, Mr. Gonzalez’s circle of
friends. So we would sit down to dinner in the
classroom-cum-kitchen, armed with a folder enclosing a
rating sheet and a freshly sharpened pencil. The aromas
of things being grilled, fried, baked or steamed would
hover around us like wispy clouds, precursors of what
would soon be on our plates to be eaten—then judged
mercilessly. “Where did you buy this duck sausage?” “We
didn’t buy it, Chef; we made it.” “How did you cure
it?” “How did you get this crust on the baguette? You
call this a baguette?” “What technique was applied for
the puff pastry?” The students would likewise be
grilled, as the dinner, after all, is a test of culinary
technique and overall kitchen savvy.
For
those in the panel, the dinner is somehow also a test,
an exercise in restraint—lest we grade too excessively
or too miserly, or have seconds of the sorbets and ice
creams that have been unfailingly superb through the
years. But for me, the dinners are always an opportunity
to learn about things that had to do with food and wine.
That no one knows what wine each is bringing also adds
to the surprise factor. As Mr. Gonzalez is wont to say,
the meal may be a disaster, but at least we can be sure
of the wines. Just bring a bottle and don’t worry about
the pairing—things will always work out, he would always
tell me. Over the years, I’ve had memories of soufflés
that didn’t quite rise to the occasion, underdone
risottos and overworked meat. But the mishap would be
forgotten with a perfectly cured chorizo, a gloriously
crusty ciabatta, or a beautifully golden pound cake. And
always, the guests would be generous in sharing the
wines from their cellar, from their prized collection,
or from the nearest wine store.
The
first set of this year’s repertoire dinners happened
last week, four dinners each with a theme: A Taste of
Burgundy, Italian Cuisine, Cucina Catalana and The
Contemporary French Kitchen. Here is a list of what we
drank:
A Taste
of
Burgundy:
Monday, January 7
Wines:
Johannisberg Riesling California 2006, Steenberg
Sauvignon Blanc Reserve 2005, Tower Ridge Pinot Noir
Tasmania 2003, 120 Sta. Rita Carmenère 2004, Ridge 2003
California, Sta. Cruz Mountains, Arvisu Crianza Bodegas
Hidalgos, Quinta do Crasto 1997, Torres Moscatel Oro
Best
Wines: Quinta do Crasto, Ridge 2003
Italian
Cuisine: Tuesday, January 8
Wines:
Torriglione 2004, Barbera d’Alba Renato Ratti; Katnook
Founder’s Block Chardonnay Reserva 2004, Ceretto
Nebbiolo, Rufino Ducale d’Oro Reserva
Best
Wines: Barbera d’Alba; Ruffino Ducale
Cucina
Catalana: Thursday, January 10
Wines:
De Casta Torres, Craggy Ranch Sauvignon Blanc 2006, Viña
Sol 2006. La Vendimia Rioja 2006, Capçanes Cabrida 2004,
Montes Alpha 2003, Pupilla Carmenère
Best
Wines: La Vendimia 2006, Cabrida 2004, Montes Alpha 2003
The
Contemporary French Kitchen: Friday, January 11
Wines:
La Gitana Manzanilla, Bouquet d’Or Moscatel, La Cuvée
Mythique 2001, Château Timberlay Cuvée Prestige 2003,
Penfolds Rawson’s Retreat Merlot 2005
Best
Wines: La Cuvée Mythique, Bouquet d’Or Moscatel
The
wines that we liked best were invariably those that were
memorable with the food. On their own, the wines were
good. But with food, some just stood out. How I rated
the dinners, I have to keep mum about, lest I give away
the grades in my highly secret rating sheet. But I come
away from these dinners enthused by the skills of the
student chefs, and enriched by the experience of sharing
and learning in good company. My scribbled notes on the
printed menus, stained with sauce and wine, say it all. |
