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    FOR the book Sagala: The Queen of Philippine  by Abe Florendo and Zardo Austria, published by the FDAP for its silver anniversary, Ernest Santiago designed a pink ensemble in chiffon with exotic details of cut-out flowers and leaves made of mother-of-pearl shells. The headdress is created from beaten silver with crystals and beads. THE Pretty Young Press(inset) may not have witnessed the grandeur of his designs during his heyday, but we surely didn’t want to miss a photo-op with the legend during the Weddings at the Waterfront gala, his very last major outing. With the Philippine Daily Inquirer’s Gem Padilla, the author, Philippine Star’s Bea Ledesma and Daily Tribune’s Dinah Ventura.

     
    By C. Mendez Legaspi
     

    ERNEST SANTIAGO will be missed.

    As the first multihyphenate (fashion designer-lifestyle arbiter-food connoisseur-landscape artist-furniture maker), the singular and self-made Santiago de Manila never went gently into the good night. In death as in life, he has stirred Manila from its restless stupor and once again reminded its denizens of the force of nature that he will always be.

    Murdered most heinously at his resort café in Pagsanjan, Laguna, just as the year was coming to a close, reportedly by persons he trusted immensely, Santiago’s senseless passing is mourned by the fashion flock still reeling from the equally meaningless and unsolved deaths of fashion designers Mel Vergel de Dios a few years ago and Caloy Badidoy in the early 1990s.

    Indeed, if not AIDS, is murder the scourge of fashion?

    In the mid-1970s, along with Rudy Fuentes and Christian Espiritu, Ernest formed Buklod, a short-lived designers’ group which eventually led to the founding of the Fashion Designers Association of the Philippines (FDAP), still the largest and longest-lasting clique of its kind. With Cesar Gaupo as the first president, Ernest served as the chairman of the board.

    While checking and balancing the most bloated egos and personalities of the design world at the time, Ernest established what would be the most famous nightclub this side of Studio 54, Coco Banana. It would prove to be his enduring legacy to local pop culture.

    Now, a quick rundown of why Ernest Santiago is a legend:

    §          Christian Espiritu. Aside from introducing Coco Banana, he could be credited as one who initiated an avant-garde and irreverent approach to fashion design. He’s his own walking model-advertisement.

    §          Barge Ramos. Ernest was fearless in his design ideas. When designers were heading in one direction, trust Ernest to take the extreme opposite. Bold in approach, singular in vision, he would always take to the road not taken.

    §          Lito Perez. Very innovative, original and Filipino in design.

    §          Edgar San Diego. For me, his contribution to pop culture is really Coco Banana. It was where the real and unreal socialeras, designers, showbiz people, models, business girls and foreigners dressed up in high-fashion (regardless if they were foreign or local designer outfits, vintage Hawaiian shirts or dyed cotton barong from Bambang) flock together and dance the night away to some classic favorites, like “The Boss,” “MacArthur’s Park,” “The Main Event,” “Souvenirs,” etc. Ernest even had these much-awaited Annual Grand Openings after two weeks of renovation, and it was a must that you got an invite that says “Coco Banana.” Back then, the world knew where we were! After all, Sean Connery wouldn’t go there for no reason.

    §          Ole Morabe. I guess it was in his desire to unify Filipino fashion designers and come up with a singular silhouette serving as a guide for every designer, that’s why he founded the FDAP. Ernest was so ahead of his time. He made it a point that he will never copy but he should be copied.

    §          Lulu Tan Gan. Ernest is a true icon, avant-garde in the ’70s and ’80s. He was proud to be a Filipino artist-designer who set the trends, both in fashion and lifestyle. We all look up to him, to the pride and passion he put into his work.

    §          Bumbee Ramos. He was the exponent of gay culture and gay power. He opened the closets of the hiding queens and gave them a stage at Coco Banana. Gayism made a good impression. A real fashionista, he played with indigenous materials, dropdead if you like. There was no rule in his ingenuity but his heart for the art.

    §          Ronaldo Arnaldo. Ernest is known for his dramatic and theatrical creations, which are being inherited by the younger set. His penchant for dramatic clothes is what I think is Ernest’s legacy.

    §          Edgar Madamba. He was ahead of his time. The innovator of Philippine fashion, he made the Filipino costume very wearable. A revolutionist.

    §          Marden Iglesias. Ernest’s sense of color, fabrication and silhouette always had a pulse ahead of its time. For me, I salute Santiago de Manila for being one of Philippine fashion’s pillars of design. He initiated and elevated Filipiniana design inspirations to contemporary style and élan. He clearly defined and illustrated the Filipino artistry, drama and gaiety in his clothes, furniture, landscape and entertainment. Ernest Santiago is a truly Filipino grand design styliste. He will be dearly missed by all who he has inspired and loved.

    §          Anthony Nocom. I belong to that last batch of generation which enjoyed and benefited from his Coco Banana. Aside form being one of Manila’s creative and innovative fashion designers of his time, to me personally, Ernest is best remembered as the artist who gave meaning to the word “discotheque.”

    §          Randy Ortiz. Ernest will always be remembered for being one of the best designers of his time, with a very strong contemporary avant-garde signature. A true-blooded party animal. Truly an inspiration and a legend.

    §          Cata Figueroa Jr. As an avant-garde artist, he was way ahead of his time. A true-blue artisan who lived his life to the fullest while, at the same time, bringing his art form to a higher level. He has become an icon in the local fashion world, someone who is truly one of a kind.

    §          Jackie Aquino. Ernest gave us Coco Banana, our home where we could be ourselves. He defined the fabulous nightlife and made Malate fashionable. He made fashion daring, fun, exciting and gave everyone something to talk about.

    In his last showcase as a fashion designer, Ernest Santiago opted to brandish his outrageous terno design at the Waterfront Cebu City Hotel. How was he coaxed out of retirement by the general manager?

    §          Recalls Marco Protacio: “Well, I needed the help of Thelma San Juan to convince him. I told Ernest that the event would be so much fun not only because of the show that Waterfront was producing, but because of the presence of his friends who were part of the event, just like a fun reunion of some sort! I had to make him cariño and lambing nonstop until he said yes. Of course, we had the most wonderful time. We all sat down for a great laugh and great conversation every mealtime.”

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